You might try a different arrow. I have the same problems with gold tip velocitys, but the kinetics shoot fine.
Look up the center shot for that bow. Being a mathews I think it's around 11/16. You can just line the string up in the center of riser then down the center of arrow by looking at it this will be close.
Look at make sure the arrow is square with the string while on the rest. Get as close to the center of the burger hole.
Make sure the cam is in time. The cable should be in the center of the timing hole on cam. Doesn't have to be perfect, but if way out it makes a difference.
Mathews states to make the idler wheel to be straight at rest. Put there for now. Now shoot it through the paper. If not what you want play with hand grip first.
If same now look at adjustments. Also if your drawing to long you will have problems.
Adjust rest to get close as possible. Then do the yoke tuning as stated above for fine adjustment.
This is just a fast and rough statement to get you headed in the right direction. There are other adjustments but this will get you started
Look up the center shot for that bow. Being a mathews I think it's around 11/16. You can just line the string up in the center of riser then down the center of arrow by looking at it this will be close.
Look at make sure the arrow is square with the string while on the rest. Get as close to the center of the burger hole.
Make sure the cam is in time. The cable should be in the center of the timing hole on cam. Doesn't have to be perfect, but if way out it makes a difference.
Mathews states to make the idler wheel to be straight at rest. Put there for now. Now shoot it through the paper. If not what you want play with hand grip first.
If same now look at adjustments. Also if your drawing to long you will have problems.
Adjust rest to get close as possible. Then do the yoke tuning as stated above for fine adjustment.
This is just a fast and rough statement to get you headed in the right direction. There are other adjustments but this will get you started
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