Help with tuning.

[mschlott]

After some help here, I found that my arrows were too stiff for their length and the draw weight of my bow. I cut 4 of them down and re-fletched 2 of them and left 2 unfletched.

I'm following the Easton Arrow Tuning and Maintenance Guide at http://www.eastonarchery.com/img/dow...ning_guide.pdf. On page 5 it talks about porpoising. Initially my unfletched arrows were hitting 10 inches lower than the fletched arrows, so per the guide I lowered the knocking point. This made the problem worse. The further I moved, the worse it got. Eventually, my arrows when knocked were angled up instead of level or down.

I went the other direction and moved my knoking loop up untill the fletched and unfletched arrows are impacting in the same plane. Now the arrow is pointing very low compared to level when knocked.

So I start working on the left to right. I end up moving my guide all the way to the right, (I am left handed), so this is to the outside. The arrows are now impacting near each other left to right.

My concern is this bow now looks totally out of whack so I don't think it's right.

The 2 pictures I'm uploading are top down view of my arrows and side view. The fletched arrows are angled into the target at the opposite angle than the non-fletched arrows.

The fact that I'm moving my knocking point the opposite direction that the guide indicates to me that either I can't read, or the guide is wrong, or there is something else going on.

Where do I start?

[Daniel75]

What bow, poundage, draw length, arrows, spine and rest are you using?

I'm no bow tuner but I DID stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night

[mschlott]

What bow, poundage, draw length, arrows, spine and rest are you using?

I'm no bow tuner but I DID stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night

Diamond Infinite Edge
About 55lbs
29.5"
Cabelas Carbon Hunter
400 Spine
Hostage XL rest that came with the bow.

I hope you got a good nights sleep.

[enewman]

No bow tuner but here is some thought. One thing I see with bows that have a lot of adjustment. They never come from factory with the cams in sync. Make sure the top and bottom cam are stopping at the same point. This will take two people or a draw board. Make sure you do this in a safe manor and with a arrow incase you accidentally release.

This is differnt then cam timing. Don't worry about the timing just get cams in sync at this time. Check to make sure ata is good and brace height is good. Once sync is done set your arrow in he center of burger hole and at 90 degree to the string. Then set center shot. Then go back to the easton tuning.

[mschlott]

No bow tuner but here is some thought. One thing I see with bows that have a lot of adjustment. They never come from factory with the cams in sync. Make sure the top and bottom cam are stopping at the same point. This will take two people or a draw board. Make sure you do this in a safe manor and with a arrow incase you accidentally release.

This is differnt then cam timing. Don't worry about the timing just get cams in sync. Once sync is done set your arrow in he center of burger hole and at 90 degree to the string. Then set center shot. Then go back to the easton tuning.

Thanks, I'll check the Cams. Maybe the club has a draw board. If they are out of sync, what do I do? Adjust one limb different from the other?

[oktx]

If you cut them you made them stiffer. Those arrows should be fine for that setup. I would put everything back where it was and start over. I wouldn't mess with the bare shaft tuning. Look up walk back tuning on YouTube. It should get you straightened out. I would also check for contact on your rest.

[enewman]

Thanks, I'll check the Cams. Maybe the club has a draw board. If they are out of sync, what do I do? Adjust one limb different from the other?

I'm sorry. You will make the adjustment on the cables this will require a press. You take the end on the cam off and either twist or untwist. Do not take the cable lose on the end that is split and tied to the limbs. Twisting the cable will retard the cam. That is rotate it toward the riser. That will move the stop further away. Untwist will do the opposite.

You may want to see about a good pro shop. It's hard to explain sometimes. If you want to doit your self pm me your number and I can talk to on the phone a lot easier. Also there is a guy on here by rocky. You might look him up to. He is a little blunt but everyone on here likes him been doing it a long time

[Mudslinger]

I really do not like the idea of seeing how the nock end of an arrow points or angles when tuning. Too many of the targets used do not give a true angle of pentration showing. What I mean is sometimes the arrow will follow the path of least resistance into the target and give a false reading. I have seen it way too many times, It will still be a lot easier to tune a stiff arrow over a weak spined arrow IMHO.

[rocky]

Cams are out of time.

[mschlott]

If you cut them you made them stiffer. Those arrows should be fine for that setup. I would put everything back where it was and start over. I wouldn't mess with the bare shaft tuning. Look up walk back tuning on YouTube. It should get you straightened out. I would also check for contact on your rest.

I put everything back to center visually and brought knocked arrow up to about 1/2" below square. I looked up walk back tuning, and it seems very simple. I don't have a target large enough to do this at the scale I would like and the indoor range I use only has 25 yards. They used to do long range on Thursday nights. I'll check into it.

[rocky]

I'm sorry. You will make the adjustment on the cables this will require a press. You take the end on the cam off and either twist or untwist. Do not take the cable lose on the end that is split and tied to the limbs. Twisting the cable will retard the cam. That is rotate it toward the riser. That will move the stop further away. Untwist will do the opposite.

You may want to see about a good pro shop. It's hard to explain sometimes. If you want to doit your self pm me your number and I can talk to on the phone a lot easier. Also there is a guy on here by rocky. You might look him up to. He is a little blunt but everyone on here likes him been doing it a long time

Actually, twisting the cable advances the cam.
Untwisting retards the cam
Twisting the string on a 2 cam bow retards both cams.

[mschlott]

Cams are out of time.

OK I'm learning something. I read some about timing and syncronization. The cable is between the timing marks on both cams for the "A" setting. This indicates to me that the cams are in time.

The stops seem to both hit at the same time, so this indicates to me that the cams are synchronized.

This is all new to me, so if I'm doing something wrong, let me know.

[rocky]

OK I'm learning something. I read some about timing and syncronization. The cable is between the timing marks on both cams for the "A" setting. This indicates to me that the cams are in time.

The stops seem to both hit at the same time, so this indicates to me that the cams are synchronized.

This is all new to me, so if I'm doing something wrong, let me know.

First, You need to ditch the Hostage, as the bristles are so stiff that they interfere with the flex of the shaft, creating major tune problems.
Get a WB.
Second, the marks only mean that the cams are in the efficiency range.
Third, just because your cable stops "seem" to be contacting the cables at the same time doesn't indicate that they are.
Dual cam bows are a little finicky about timing.
Take your bow to a good archery shop that can time a dual cam bow properly.
A lot of shops sell the Infinite Edge, but if it came from a box store, more than likely, it wasn't timed properly.

[mschlott]

Thanks Rocky. I think that is good advice. I would like to do it my self, but it realy helps when there is someone who knows what they are doing.

[enewman]

Actually, twisting the cable advances the cam.
Untwisting retards the cam
Twisting the string on a 2 cam bow retards both cams.

Oops wrote it backwards either way as I stated twisting cables rotates cams back toward the riser. Same as Un twisting the string

Also having the draw stops hitting at same time is putting cams in sync. This has nothing to do with timing. Sync and timing is two different things.