The one I have was bought at cabelas for like 20 bucks. Not sure of its name
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Originally posted by rocky View PostI'm gonna confess ignorance here, so please explain to us how you set a draw-curve without affecting DL, poundage, and let-off.Originally posted by enewman View PostNo sir rocky you are correct it effects all that you listed. And if the draw is to long we just drop down a 1/2 in in draw. I have always shot 26.5 to 27 in draw but with my mathews after playing with it I had to go to 26 in mods.
I'm sorry how this post has become. Being a electrician I'm high strung and always right kinda like welders haha.
Thanks again rocky. God Bless
To adjust for this "we just drop down a 1/2 in. in draw".
Now, even as ignorant as I am of how a compound bow works, I know that you can't change anything about a bow's cam system, without it affecting something else.
So explain to me what you did to get back to the same draw-curve that you liked, before you shortened the DL, because we know that when you shortened DL, you changed the draw-curve again.
Am I missing something?
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Holy crap rocky still trying to catch me in a screw up. We all know what we are trying to get a draw curve that looks the same at the start and the end with the flattest top
To muddy. I'm very sorry for what this post has turned into. And thanks again for the info on the feathers. Good luck with your build
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Originally posted by rocky View PostSeems simple enough if I feel I ever have the need for a draw-board.
You and others took my post, and used it as an opportunity to show a lack of ability by me to tune a bow.
Originally posted by enewman View PostI've been reading some of the post on the draw board. Rocky there is no way you can tune a bow to its peak ability with out a draw board. If you are talking about setting the sync of the cams and cam lean, I'll agree but you cannot time cams and this is single or dual cams with out a draw board
The draw of a bow can be measured with a draw board and is very accurate. And that measurement is the amo measurement. Once you put it in someone's hand that will change by how they hold the bow and how hard they pull or not pull into the wall that is why you should always fit the bow to the person.
I'm not saying that a person cannot set up a bow and the bow shoot very well with out a draw board. But you cannot get the most out of a bow with out a draw board. All great pro shops will have oneOriginally posted by enewman View PostIt's always funny how people look at things ,and yes I think so. Unless you can draw a bow with a scale and plot a draw curve so you can manipulate the cams to put them in the most optimum degree of angle you cannot get the peak performance from a bow. Easton's pro kit is probably the closest you can get with out the draw board. And no I would not have a 2x6 board in a shop either if a customer could see it. There are more professional ways.
Rocky if you have way to set draw curve with out a board then I'm more then willing to learn another method. There is always room for learningOriginally posted by enewman View PostNo sir not a lot but I do,do lots of research and I do test theory's. now is it worth all the trouble, that totally depends most and do mean most archers do not worry about this. But I like to tinker and if I can get another 8 fps out of my bow why not. For a 30 in draw person who cares but thanks to my mom and dad I only have a 26.5 in draw. I don't worry about speed as to trying to shoot a 300 fps bow I'm trying to shoot a 875 gn arrow at 210 fpsOriginally posted by enewman View PostI'm guessing I hit a nerve. I'm not saying your not a great tuner, but I have been in a lot of bow shops over the years, and most do not know the difference from syncing cams and timing. Most have not even heard of a draw board, but yet there charging customers $100 for tuning there bows
If I have offended you imam sorry , but you are the one that came on here making the statements you did and I just responded.
God BlessOriginally posted by enewman View PostYou guys are so funny. Not one of you have told me a different way. And yes we tuned bows with out a draw board also and the bows shot great and know one new the difference. But when there is a tool to help improve your ability to do a job why not.
It's funny that all I'm getting is smart ***** answers.Originally posted by enewman View PostRocky no where even close to what you have done and I never will. I only work on mine and friends. I would never own a shop either. It's a hard job to make it with the Internet. No way to compete, and dealing with customers or smart ***** people like me.
But I am no idiot either. Thank you for the postOriginally posted by BTLowry View PostEveryone posting advice on this thread needs to post up their qualifications:
How long have you been shooting a bow?
What is your primary occupation?
How many bows have you tuned/ expect to tune in a week/year/month?
That might help some of the rest of us get a better perspectiveOriginally posted by enewman View PostOk BT LOWRY
First off I have no where done anywhere even remote to the amount of bows that rocky has done and that was stated in one of my post
Now to your questions
I have been shooting since 1989
I run a electrical/ Ac business. That I have worked at since 1991
I help a local bow shop in between my 70 to 80 hours a week normal job so lately I have not been at the store. I mainly work on mine and friends for for a complete tune and there is a difference. A lot of shops just set the sync of cams set center shot and make sure they can hit the target and make some small adjustments. I do not consider that as tuning, that is setting up a bow, and that's what most do. Very few mess with cam rotation or have even heard of walk back/French tuning. Rocky my be the exception and if he is his customers are in great hands.
I personally do not see how you can do certain tuning jobs with out a draw board, setting a draw curve is one. Rocky just may be blessed and have the touch i dont. So i have to use a tool
There is a purpose to setting a draw curve. Some people like a easy pull up front. Some like it hard up front and roll off at the back. I like mine to be equal or as close as I can get. This is usually the best for the most speed. This also why some people shoot one bow and state it's great and some one else at a differnt location tells you it sucks. I dought that a bow coming in from the manufactor makes all there bows match. Even the great mathews don't come into the shop with the cable in the center of the hole on the cam on every bow Now that can be corrected with out a draw board.
It's the same with a hooter shooter. You can tune a bow with it ,but the customer has to shoot for final adjustments. I have even seen bow shops paper tune a bow then give it to the customer. If that worked out it was luck.
Please for give me for my grammar and miss spelling as I'm a working man providing for the lazy and the illegalsOriginally posted by rocky View PostI'm gonna confess ignorance here, so please explain to us how you set a draw-curve without affecting DL, poundage, and let-off.Originally posted by enewman View PostNo sir rocky you are correct it effects all that you listed. And if the draw is to long we just drop down a 1/2 in in draw. I have always shot 26.5 to 27 in draw but with my mathews after playing with it I had to go to 26 in mods.
I'm sorry how this post has become. Being a electrician I'm high strung and always right kinda like welders haha.
Thanks again rocky. God BlessOriginally posted by rocky View PostSo, through the use of a draw-board, you altered the draw-curve,(cycle) of your bow, to where it was too long, and most likely higher poundage.
To adjust for this "we just drop down a 1/2 in. in draw".
Now, even as ignorant as I am of how a compound bow works, I know that you can't change anything about a bow's cam system, without it affecting something else.
So explain to me what you did to get back to the same draw-curve that you liked, before you shortened the DL, because we know that when you shortened DL, you changed the draw-curve again.
Am I missing something?Originally posted by enewman View PostHoly crap rocky still trying to catch me in a screw up. We all know what we are trying to get a draw curve that looks the same at the start and the end with the flattest top
To muddy. I'm very sorry for what this post has turned into. And thanks again for the info on the feathers. Good luck with your build
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You know rocky I have told you im sorry several times. I realized the post got screwed up mudslinger stated the same thing. Let the post die and let it get buried to the back. If you have a good shop which I believe you do then you have a good following of customers. Then this did not hurt you. Spend time with them this weekend tell them how stupid I am and have fun with it, but get over it. This is a open Form and everyone has there opinion.
At this time I'm spending my bow time seeing at what weight a arrow has to be for the efficiency of the bow to go up. Good luck rocky
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Originally posted by rocky View PostSeems simple enough if I feel I ever have the need for a draw-board.Originally posted by rocky View PostExactly.
Keep in mind, a hand drawn bow vs. a drawboard drawn bow are two different things.Originally posted by 12RingKing View PostYou operate a bowshop?Originally posted by rocky View PostYes.
If you're implying that a bow can't be tuned properly without using a draw-board, you would be mistaken.
I asked a question of your experience and you decided to tell me that I was wrong, assuming I was going to tell you that you need a drawboard to tune a bow. In all honesty, I would have left it at that and let other people come up with their own conclusion.
Claiming you were ganged up on unprovoked is wrong.
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Originally posted by muddyfuzzy View Postnice!
Usually the cable stops will end up about 1/8" off the cables with the bow at 80% letoff and the DL set dead on. Just something to look at and look for when using a drawboard on those 2012 Strother bows.
Also, there are some good videos put out by Elite Archery and Strother Archery on how to use a drawboard in the tuning of their bows. Of course both companies use a draw board in the tuning process of their bows prior to shipping them to dealers.
There is also an older video done by Chris McDonald of Orion Adventures with Kevin Strother. Kevin provides some "tips" and "methods" in the video and just some cool information to have from a bow designer that has done work for numerous companies. Its on YouTube under how to build a drawboard or something like that.
They are some good resources and you can pick up info from both bow companies and a prominent bow designer.
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Here is the link to the old video done by Chris and Kevin.
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Originally posted by TexasCanesFan View PostHad a chance to put that Rush on your drawboard yet and really look at the timing aspects of the cable stops for the timing(instead of the dots like Elite uses) and be able to set the limb stops for the back wall?
Usually the cable stops will end up about 1/8" off the cables with the bow at 80% letoff and the DL set dead on. Just something to look at and look for when using a drawboard on those 2012 Strother bows.
Also, there are some good videos put out by Elite Archery and Strother Archery on how to use a drawboard in the tuning of their bows. Of course both companies use a draw board in the tuning process of their bows prior to shipping them to dealers.
There is also an older video done by Chris McDonald of Orion Adventures with Kevin Strother. Kevin provides some "tips" and "methods" in the video and just some cool information to have from a bow designer that has done work for numerous companies. Its on YouTube under how to build a drawboard or something like that.
They are some good resources and you can pick up info from both bow companies and a prominent bow designer.
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