Serving and peep rotation ??

[red]

I had the serving showing some fuzz just on top of the roller guard. Flicked my nail on it and it seperated. I removed and reserved that area of the string, and since, my peep is rotating a bit. Straight at rest, but at full draw it's about 10oclock. Could the change in serving relax that area of the string I guess and cause rotation? I was hoping to finish the season before I had to do that but didn't work out. I added 1.5 twists to get the peep to rest at 2oclock and straight at full draw. Shoots just as good so I can finish the season before getting a new string.

[12RingKing]

My understanding of string making is limited. But, if its served under, lets say 300#, then you need to reserve it under the same tension or it would creep a bit.

If you have it back where you want it then I'd say leave it as long as you're still shooting well. But putting twists in the string changes the DL and poundage.

What bow you shooting?

[muddyfuzzy]

you could just press it and move a strand or two to the other side of the peep.

[PSD Ryan]

you could just press it and move a strand or two to the other side of the peep.

This is my preferred way to do it. I do even strands. If I move one from one side around back to the other, I take one from the other side around front to the first side.

Twisting the string to do it will change your draw length, brace height, ATA, and cam timing.

[PROUDREDNECK]

I would`t reserve my bowstring unless I`m 100% sure that`s a really bad fuzzing that cannot be solved with wax... yep, reservings can twist a little the string thats why you`re having problems with your peep, perhaps too much serving tension.

[rocky]

I had the serving showing some fuzz just on top of the roller guard. Flicked my nail on it and it seperated. I removed and reserved that area of the string, and since, my peep is rotating a bit. Straight at rest, but at full draw it's about 10oclock. Could the change in serving relax that area of the string I guess and cause rotation? I was hoping to finish the season before I had to do that but didn't work out. I added 1.5 twists to get the peep to rest at 2oclock and straight at full draw. Shoots just as good so I can finish the season before getting a new string.

My understanding of string making is limited. But, if its served under, lets say 300#, then you need to reserve it under the same tension or it would creep a bit.

If you have it back where you want it then I'd say leave it as long as you're still shooting well. But putting twists in the string changes the DL and poundage.

What bow you shooting?

This is my preferred way to do it. I do even strands. If I move one from one side around back to the other, I take one from the other side around front to the first side.

Twisting the string to do it will change your draw length, brace height, ATA, and cam timing.

Sounds to me like you're back in action.
1 1/2 twists will shorten the string app.3/32 of an inch.
If anybody can detect a BH and A2A difference with this amount of twist, they can measure way more precise than I can.

[12RingKing]

Sounds to me like you're back in action.
1 1/2 twists will shorten the string app.3/32 of an inch.
If anybody can detect a BH and A2A difference with this amount of twist, they can measure way more precise than I can.

You're only as precise as your tools.

[rocky]

You're only as precise as your tools.

My point being that on a hunting rig, having your peep aligned is more beneficial immediately, than what minimal change in BH, A2A, poundage and DL,and fps, that 3/32 inch changes.

[12RingKing]

My point being that on a hunting rig, having your peep aligned is more beneficial immediately, than what minimal change in BH, A2A, poundage and DL,and fps, that 3/32 inch changes.

One thing I learned to do in my first attempts at tuning was slide my d-loop with the peep rotation. I would draw back and my peep was turned to my eye I would make a note of which direction it was in and turn my d-loop to make my peep straight with my eye at full draw.

[rocky]

One thing I learned to do in my first attempts at tuning was slide my d-loop with the peep rotation. I would draw back and my peep was turned to my eye I would make a note of which direction it was in and turn my d-loop to make my peep straight with my eye at full draw.

Right, but after a bow has been shot awhile, not only does the loop seat itself, the serving has a tendecy to get flat from the arrow nock.(I know you know this), so to manipulate your peep with the loop under these conditions for each shot, (because it will find it's way back to it's'home'), becomes a PITA when hunting.
I think twisting the string to realign the peep and loop, is the best way because the teeny amount of change in specs in all reality is undetectable.

[old killer]

It is most likely the direction you reserved the string that caused the rotation of the peep.
If your peep is straight at full draw and the bow groups, you don't have a problem.
If your peep isn't square to your eye you will have a tendency to have right and left issues in accordance with the direction the light is coming from.

[wassaw]

just taking a guess but i would bet when you re-served, you went in the opposite direction than the first serving.