Bowtech cam lean

[SabineRR]

I had my limbs swapped out today on my invasionfrom 70 to a 60 pounds and now it looks like my top cam is leaning at rest. It's not leaning very much but as you can tell from the picture it is leaning. Should I worry about it? I've seen all the bowtech horror stories of peoples bow exploding and I don't want to be next.....

[JerryR]

Pm sent

[SabineRR]

Pm returned Jerry

[bowstalker210]

my martin was doing the same thing, I had a couple twists put into the right side of my yoke

[hully1029]

Pm sent

have no idea what was said in this pm, but i would listen..

[SabineRR]

have no idea what was said in this pm, but i would listen..

Oh trust me I always listen to Jerry! He is the best of the best!

[Reaper87]

Looks like its out of the track at the bottom of the cam. A few twists on the right side of the yoke should bring it back in.

[rocky]

Cams will lean towards rollerguide at rest, but at full draw need to be straight.
Top cam always has a bit more lean at rest than bottom.

[chris1911]

Cams will lean towards rollerguide at rest, but at full draw need to be straight.
Top cam always has a bit more lean at rest than bottom.

It does this because at rest th cable slide is pulling th cable t o one side. It matters at full draw. But u will need a draw board to really see it

[rocky]

It does this because at rest th cable slide is pulling th cable t o one side. It matters at full draw. But u will need a draw board to really see it

Ya think?
No, you do not need a draw-board for anything.

[chris1911]

Ya think?
No, you do not need a draw-board for anything.

we musta posted about the same time otherwise i wouldnt have repeated what you said...no need to get smart...


To test this you will need a draw board to hold your bow safely at full draw while you hold a
carbon arrow TIGHT against the side of the top cam/idler and rotate the arrow down next to the
bowstring.With the bow at full draw, look at the edge of the arrow and look at the edge of the bowstring. Is
the gap parallel? If so, the top cam or idler wheel lean angle is PERFECT.If the gap between the arrow and the bowstring gets more and more narrow, you need to put the
bow into a (portable) bow press and add twists to the yoke cable leg that is too long.

[ETABNT]

we musta posted about the same time otherwise i wouldnt have repeated what you said...no need to get smart...


To test this you will need a draw board to hold your bow safely at full draw while you hold a
carbon arrow TIGHT against the side of the top cam/idler and rotate the arrow down next to the
bowstring.With the bow at full draw, look at the edge of the arrow and look at the edge of the bowstring. Is
the gap parallel? If so, the top cam or idler wheel lean angle is PERFECT.If the gap between the arrow and the bowstring gets more and more narrow, you need to put the
bow into a (portable) bow press and add twists to the yoke cable leg that is too long.

This is the best and safest way to check for this issue. others will just keep pressing and twisting til it seems right to the eye.

[rocky]

we musta posted about the same time otherwise i wouldnt have repeated what you said...no need to get smart...


To test this you will need a draw board to hold your bow safely at full draw while you hold a
carbon arrow TIGHT against the side of the top cam/idler and rotate the arrow down next to the
bowstring.With the bow at full draw, look at the edge of the arrow and look at the edge of the bowstring. Is
the gap parallel? If so, the top cam or idler wheel lean angle is PERFECT.If the gap between the arrow and the bowstring gets more and more narrow, you need to put the
bow into a (portable) bow press and add twists to the yoke cable leg that is too long.

This is the best and safest way to check for this issue. others will just keep pressing and twisting til it seems right to the eye.

This process is way overcomplicating a simple cam-lean,/ harness tuning procedure.

Maybe I simplify the process due to the amount of time I've spent doing this.

[rocky]

It does this because at rest th cable slide is pulling th cable t o one side. It matters at full draw. But u will need a draw board to really see it

Ya think?
No, you do not need a draw-board for anything.

we musta posted about the same time otherwise i wouldnt have repeated what you said...no need to get smart...


To test this you will need a draw board to hold your bow safely at full draw while you hold a
carbon arrow TIGHT against the side of the top cam/idler and rotate the arrow down next to the
bowstring.With the bow at full draw, look at the edge of the arrow and look at the edge of the bowstring. Is
the gap parallel? If so, the top cam or idler wheel lean angle is PERFECT.If the gap between the arrow and the bowstring gets more and more narrow, you need to put the
bow into a (portable) bow press and add twists to the yoke cable leg that is too long.

Wasn't being smart, and if it came across that way I apologize.
I thought it was a foregone conclusion that everybody knew that since cables are to the side, that the riser torqued, requiring cam-lean.( Load transfer also causes cam-lean, but in alot of bows this transfer is not adjustable).
But, you do not need a draw-board to address cam-lean, or any other aspect of bow tuning.
A draw-board will not draw a bow like a human hand, therefore the results of said draw-board are just what the bow does in it.
All the bows I tune are shot by hand.

[kooterbrown9157]

I was told with my martin that i need a new string and this will fix my lean problem and if not getting the new string to twist my yoke as well and this will bring it back in line. But they said it is due to the string strech.