Tuning Help

[PSD Ryan]

I'm not sure how cx designates arrow spine, but the way Easton/Beman do it, a 250 means .250 inches of deflection over a 28 inch length with a 20 lb weight on the center. A 150 would be less deflection, and therefore stiffer/more/heavier/stronger spine. I shoot 27" arrows at 28" draw at 67 lbs. A 340 is slightly stiff, and a 400 is just right for me. I have a hard time believing a 250 is weak for your setup.

[wassaw]

move the arrow rest out away from the riser slightly until the broadheads and fieldtips hit together
if your fieldtips are hitting center then your BH's are hitting 3" right

[bowhuntntxn]

Cx numbers theirs backwards. A 250 is a 400 deflection and the 150 is the 500 deflection? Turning your draw weight down 1 turn will tell you if you are weak spined. But you have to put everything back in its original position or you are spinning your wheels.

[ItsLeo]

1. Paper tune
2. Walk back tune
3. Broadhead tune using the diagram above.

Adjust nock height issues only first. Get the broadheads hitting left or right of your fieldpoints on the same level. You should not have to adjust your rest when broadhead tuning. The rest should already be in the optimum position after paper and walk back tuning. Fix the broadheads hitting left or right by adjusting draw weight or changing head weight. If you can't get it done by doing that you likely need different spined arrows.

[HoghunterTX]

Okay so I did some research and found this on the slick tricks website: [ATTACH]332309[/ATTACH]
So, according to slick trick, since my broadheads are hitting right of my field points, my arrows are spined too weak. I need a higher spined arrow. Here is a like to where I got all my info

http://www.slicktrick.net/node/36

Hope this helps you also!

Hey thanks I believe this will help a lot!

[SabineRR]

1. Paper tune
2. Walk back tune
3. Broadhead tune using the diagram above.

Adjust nock height issues only first. Get the broadheads hitting left or right of your fieldpoints on the same level. You should not have to adjust your rest when broadhead tuning. The rest should already be in the optimum position after paper and walk back tuning. Fix the broadheads hitting left or right by adjusting draw weight or changing head weight. If you can't get it done by doing that you likely need different spined arrows.

Great advice, when I get home today I will try this and if I still can't get it tuned right, I will post pics of my shots and list everything I have tried.

[ItsLeo]

Great advice, when I get home today I will try this and if I still can't get it tuned right, I will post pics of my shots and list everything I have tried.

I forgot to mention, you are wasting your time tuning if your cams are not timed or set in the correct starting position. That needs to be the first thing you check before you start tuning.

Broadhead tuning isn't just about getting your fixed broadheads and fieldpoints to fly together. When it's done right your bow actually shoots all kinds of heads better. Even field points and mechanical heads shoot more accurately.

Tuning the draw weight to the spine of your arrow shaft is a key point.

The lightbulb went on for me when I noticed that when top pro-archers list their specs the draw weights were always very specific. ie. 62.5lbs, 57.25lbs, 68.5lbs... This was on bows I knew for sure could be cranked down harder. Tuning was the reason.