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    Pin gaps at Warp Speed question

    First Off - Yes, I am dense

    I'm currently toying around with the idea of going to a lighter arrow.

    Specifically, anywhere from a 450-475gr arrow. I have a dozen black eagle Carnivores laying around I'm playing with.

    Currently shooting a Bowtech SX80 @ 85#. 31.5 inch draw length. Do I need that poundage? No. But this thing does pull easier than my traverse at 75#...

    With a 475gr arrow I'm getting 327fps.



    How on earth are some of you shooting a 5 pin sight without it being a blob of pins?

    I had issues last year with my pins fuzzing together a bit and I was shooting in the high 280's, low 290's with a 585gr arrow last year.

    I'm debating going to a single pin, but of course every time I try a single pin I have a deer walk just outside of my max range with the slider set at 20.

    I managed to send one straight through the backstraps of a buck @ 10yds in 2016 with my single pin set to 25 so I am already gunshy of it.


    Any tricks ya'll would suggest? My 5 pin is a black Gold Pro Sight (X frame) with the big dog 2 inch housing. I have debated switching to a smaller peep than 1/4 inch to reduce the amount of light to reduce fuzz but I really don't want to lose being able to see my pins at close to last legal shooting light.

    A single pin would certainly clear things up, but I find myself not having time to dial in hunting situations. I'm especially curious to see how far an arrow will drop from 20-30yd at that speed if anyone has feedback...

    #2
    You could try a long dovetail. If I remember correct the pin gapping gets bigger the further away the pins are from riser.

    Also changing pin size to .10 will help as well assuming you don’t already have it that way.
    Last edited by Bone Thug; 02-18-2024, 11:26 PM.

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      #3
      What Bone Thug said. The further the sight from your eye, the bigger the pin gaps, but also the further from the eye, the more perceived movement there is in the sight picture and the more hand torque can move your pins. Everything is trade offs. You may want to consider just shooting fewer pins with bigger gaps. Instead of the norm of 20,30,40,50 etc... move to 20, 40, 50, 60 or something. You could also consider something like the Option sight. You could set 3 fixed to 20, 35, 45, and the for anything past that use the single pin and get the rest out of the way.

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        #4
        I’d do the opposite really. It’s obviously a hunting rig not a target. I hate putting target equipment in the hunting world

        id SHORTEN the sight bar and set a single pin @25-27 yards. At that speed I bet you can keep em in a snuff can from 10-35 yards.

        if you needed more a 25 and a 40 would probably both still fit in the vitals and cover 10-almost 50 yards!!!! And still be compact!

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Low Fence View Post
          I’d do the opposite really. It’s obviously a hunting rig not a target. I hate putting target equipment in the hunting world

          id SHORTEN the sight bar and set a single pin @25-27 yards. At that speed I bet you can keep em in a snuff can from 10-35 yards.

          if you needed more a 25 and a 40 would probably both still fit in the vitals and cover 10-almost 50 yards!!!! And still be compact!
          That doesn’t answer his question though for what he asked. Lol
          Just messing with ya.

          I run short bar sights as close as I can get it to the front of the riser. I don’t like pin clutter either. I use a 3pin slider and a 2 pin slider. It’s for hunting but I do like to shoot long distance for the fun of it.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Low Fence View Post
            I’d do the opposite really. It’s obviously a hunting rig not a target. I hate putting target equipment in the hunting world

            id SHORTEN the sight bar and set a single pin @25-27 yards. At that speed I bet you can keep em in a snuff can from 10-35 yards.

            if you needed more a 25 and a 40 would probably both still fit in the vitals and cover 10-almost 50 yards!!!! And still be compact!
            I’m no pro and probably do most things donkey backwards. But this advice above is basically exactly how I go about it. Your speeds should make it fairly easy to get your POI pretty tight at multiple close distances.

            I just run a single pin and have the same issue of worrying about getting dialed in if they are out of range, so what i did is take my Glendale out pre season to my setups and did a crapload of shooting where they usually come in and where I need to aim if I don’t have time to move my pin. I keep my pin set at 28yds and that gives me pretty much a good vital hit anywhere between 20-40yd with me holding high/low. Out past 40 if I need to shoot I just adjust at that point because I usually have time with that distance.

            Comment


              #7
              Thanks for the replies!

              Its a 34 ATA bow, compact and my draw length are something that never will fit in the same sentence. Just something I have to live with.

              Unfortunately I'm gonna have a bit to think about this, because after playing around with arrows in the 450gr range I have splintered limbs on the top and bottom to get warrantied.

              The longer sight bar is probably the best answer but I have debated an option sight in the past. The dials on the older ones had a fair amount of slop that I didn't care for. Then again, Bloodtrail keeps telling me his Burris Oracle is the coolest thing since sliced bread but I can't bring myself to go to the dark side just yet .

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