Arrow shafts

[txfireguy2003]

I'm setting up a new bow, Elite Terrain, that I picked up at a charity auction back in May. I've shot it a few times with the parts that it came with and an arrow from my old bow and I really like it. Much more forgiving than my Bowtech, so I'm about to rig it out with a better quality test (QAD MXT) and some new arrows to get ready for hunting season.

I haven't bought any new arrows in years and now there are tons of new options out there and I'm not sure what to get. I've got a cart started at Lancaster Archery, but need to add some bare shafts. What are you guys running for hunting arrows these days?

I've been shooting Easton Axis and FMJ for privacy the last 15 years and I'm not opposed to sticking with what I know, but if there's something better these days..... let me know. I like to run Blazers with a much helical as possible to steer fixed blade broadheads..... Slick Tricks have never let me down.

Also, Easton spine calculator seems pretty aggressive to me. I've never bought stiffer than a 340 spine arrow (28"DL, I've run arrows from 27" to 30" over the years, always at 70lbs, on bows from mild to pretty extreme draw curve). They're now saying I need a 300 spine for even a 60lb mild cam bow. What gives? Has something changed in the last 5-6 years since I bought arrows?

[kd350]

Axis are great arrows, I always went stiffer when choosing my arrows. I’ve always gone with a 300 spine arrow regardless, especially adding more insert weight up front

[Mission408]

Stay with the axis, great shaft and American made

[jt400]

If you're going with 70 pounds/100 grain BH and a weighted insert around 50 grains 300 is perfect. I shoot axis 260's with a 100 grain BH and 75 grain insert but my draw in 31.5". If you go with axis add some halfout inserts in to your cart. The HIT inserts is a bad system in my opinion.

[Bmetz117]

I'm having an arrow choice dilemma myself currently...
Hunter Xts, Kinetic Pierce, 6.5 Hunter Classics, FMJs, or the classic XX75...

[stickemhard3]

I just went through this myself and narrowed my focus on the FMJs and Axis shafts. I wanted more KE as pass throughs with WT special grim reapers are not typical. Final selection was the FMJs, 300 spine, 12.1 gpi, 70grain insert, 100grain BH. My arrows group really well with this setup and I am ready to test it out in the field asap. I did lose some fps but wasn't too concerned with that given 99% of my shots are 35yds or closer.

[Raybo]

I really like the Gold Tip hunter. I’ve been shooting them for years. The XT hunter and the XT pro hunter. Mine are the 55/75 models. They have changed the spine rating but if I ever need more arrows I keep using the Gold Tips.

[Texas Grown]

I've got plenty of arras. Most in a standard shaft size. But wanted to try something a little different. So, I picked up some micro shafts. They are 4mm shafts with a .166 ID. The idea behide the small shaft diameter is less wind deflection. And easier pass through with less drag on the carcus/animal. The broadheads are a standard size, the one's I've already been shooting. Grimm Reaper 1-3/8 mechanical, and Grimm Reaper Hades fixed blades. When choosing an insert, make sure the broadhead side is the same diameter as your broadhead for a smoother transition into the animal. I'm shooting half-outs. Some inserts/half outs can be mixed between brands. And you can get them in different weights pending on how much FOC you want.

Looking at the Lancaster catalog, looks like they have a FMJ 4mm option. It's always better to be a little over spined, than under spined. Cause an under spined arra can break. And makes nasty wounds in your arms, hands, or othere. Could ruin your hand, arm, or other, for life. Just Google up under spined arra wounds. Remember, the more weight you add up front, the weaker the spine becomes. Sometimes it helps adding weight to both ends, pending your arra spine and what you're trying to accomplish. Veins and nock incerts can vary the weight in the rear. Also, shortening the shaft will increase the spine. The reverse is true for a longer shaft.

As you can now guess, arra building is partial calculation, partial art. It can be fun experimenting. Or trying to predict and outcome of a given weight and arra build as to how fast/slow it will go. And the estimated KE it will produce. I spine test and sort my shafts by weight as well, before building. And I can usually be pretty close on my prediction to crony speed.