Need Some Ideas - Arrows

[BIG IRON]

Skinny arrows are what really punch holes in animals of both persuasions...flesh or foam...
I shoot Beman MFXs and am thinking about trying a dozen of GoldTip Kinetic XTs...

How does a skinny arrow punch a hole better than a regular arrow? I am assuming that is following a BH that is cutting at least a 1" hole.

[Mudslinger]

Pro shop and let them tell you what will be best, length, spine and such.

[JohnS]

Pro shop and let them tell you what will be best, length, spine and such.

^^^^^ this but I sure do like my beman ics hunters 340's, with camerons custom wraps and nocturnal nocks!!

[txfour]

Well, I just got back from Cabelas as they had to set up my bow anyhow that I bought the other night. I noticed my peep was backwards and the string was twisted, so they put it in the press and fixed it up.

They did not have a ton to choose from in my price range. They set me up with "Cabelas Stalker Extreme". They are 9.3gpi. Hopefully this is what I need.

[Mudslinger]

GPI on an arrow has nothing to do with the correct arrow that is matched to your draw length, draw weight and length of the arrow. All GPI does is a part that determines the final total arrow weight. The most important part of choosing the right arrow is to choose the right spine based on the above criteria that I mentioned above. There are a lot of arrows on the market, all with different GPI's and some with heavier GPI's when the spine increases. If they matched the spine with your criteria, then you should be good to go, hopefully.

[DFWPI]

Just popped up, Carbon Express Maxima Hunters 250 with Fusion vanes for $41.50 for six pack. They only have the 250's with these vanes. I'm really wanting to try the 250's, I'm right on the bubble between 350's and 250's, but guess I may pass, as I've got a dozen Blue Streaks and two dozen Aramids, all in 350.

Good luck. Running for 3 hours or until they run out.

https://www.camofire.com

[txfour]

GPI on an arrow has nothing to do with the correct arrow that is matched to your draw length, draw weight and length of the arrow. All GPI does is a part that determines the final total arrow weight. The most important part of choosing the right arrow is to choose the right spine based on the above criteria that I mentioned above. There are a lot of arrows on the market, all with different GPI's and some with heavier GPI's when the spine increases. If they matched the spine with your criteria, then you should be good to go, hopefully.

Sorry, ya, the box says 65-80 pounds. They had me draw and marked em at the riser and cut them. They didnt say what the actual value ended up at.

[Mudslinger]

The spine is set for a bow draw weight of 65 to 80 pounds. Somewhere in probably a 400 to 340 spine which should be fine. I would still take it to a good pro shop and let them make sure everything is set right and to help you tune the bow to get the best performance and arrow flight. You definitley need to do this before you try any broadhead. Broadheads and field points do not always fly the same and this is where tuning the bow comes in. If you have any other questions, just ask, great group of guys that know their stuff on here.

[travisn10]

Easton axis full metal jacket. Probably the most durable arrows out there.

[muddyfuzzy]

ics speeds for a flat set-up.

[Razorback01]

TXfour, measure your new arrows from the nock (in the grove) to the tip of the insert (no point). That will probably be an inch or so longer than your draw lenght.

Stand against the wall with your arms against the wall and level (like a bird). Don't strech, mark your fingertips, measure it and divide by 2.5. That will be a draw lenght starting point.

[txfour]

TXfour, measure your new arrows from the nock (in the grove) to the tip of the insert (no point). That will probably be an inch or so longer than your draw lenght.

Stand against the wall with your arms against the wall and level (like a bird). Don't strech, mark your fingertips, measure it and divide by 2.5. That will be a draw lenght starting point.

64 1/4" / 2.5 = 25.7
Arrow, nock slot to insert is 29 3/4"

[Mudslinger]

Arrow length and draw length are dependent on your build and how the rest/bow combination are set up. If I use the above method to measure my draw length, then it shows me I need a draw length in the 27" to 28" range, I shoot a 29" draw. Do not tell me it is too long. I have been doing this bit for over 40 years and am very comfortabel with the draw and shoot with a slightly bent bow arm. My arrows are cut to 28" because of the set up of my rest on my bow. Everything has a starting point and that is what the suggestions above are, starting points. Your draw length is going to be the most important part of your set up. Too long and you will have problems, too short, not as many problems, but some. Arrow spine is set with all the particulars of your bow. The arrow length is a personal choice in a lot fo occasions. My arrows are 28" and that puts them right in front of my rest bu about 3/4" and on top of the riser shelf. Some like thier arrows cut to where the BH sits out in front of the riser, again personal preference. l I will say it again, all these are great suggestions and options, but to be on the safe side and have everything set like it needs to be, spend the time and finad a good pro shop and let the shop help you in setting th bow up and getting it tuned. You will be a lot happier and a lot more accurate with a bow that is matched to you and all the accessories matched to you and the bow.