Straightness tolerance. How important is it really?

[BigFoot]

I'm feeling a little dim here... But will someone explain the Spin Tester? lol

[bowhuntntxn]

Simple concept really. you put your arrow shaft in the spin tester, and do just that. What it will show you is if both ends of your arrow are cut squarely, and if there is an abnormal amount of wobble in the shaft. it can and will affect accuracy dramatically if either end is not square, and if your insert or nock isn't flush with the shaft. You can also see if your BHs spin true.

[rocky]

Sure, even though I have yet to get my first blood (hopefully Sept), I am confident that I can make the shot. However for target and 3D, I'm looking for close to perfection. I'm figuring confidence in accuracy will help in the stand.

Just a reminder, hitting an animal exactly where you intend to is a lot more important than hitting the 12 ring on a target.
Cutting both ends of the shaft will gain some straightness, as installing inserts with epoxy and spinning them in will center inserts more precisely.
Spin-checking shafts and broadheads will help come up with combinations that are the straightest, but doesn't necessarily mean that the arrow will impact exactly like the others.
I fletch my shafts with all the same color fletching so that I can index the nock to a different fletch, (spine location), to attempt to get all arrows together.
Lots of helical will also create a more forgiving arrow.

Forgiveness in a hunting set-up includes the arrow, as the arrow delivers the broadhead.
In the grand scheme of things, a good .003 shaft will make a good hunting arrow when pains are taken to build it well.

[Lynda]

Thank you, Rocky. This thread is being printed out and put in my ever expanding archery info binder.

There are some other considerations. My bow (Diamond Razor Edge) is certainly not high-end - although I have upgraded everything from factory - and I need to check the timing on my drop away before I start twisting nocks - I noticed pink smudges on the rest from the blazers. However, I also know it's a catch 22... if I start messing with the bow, I have to dial in all over again.

Excellent info gentlemen.

Hopefully I'll be able to sleep tonight!

[Mudslinger]

I will add a couple of things to what Rocky said. I think that by having a heavy arrow and more FOC will make a more forgiving and accurate arrow. At least it did for me.

[rocky]

Thank you, Rocky. This thread is being printed out and put in my ever expanding archery info binder.

There are some other considerations. My bow (Diamond Razor Edge) is certainly not high-end - although I have upgraded everything from factory - and I need to check the timing on my drop away before I start twisting nocks - I noticed pink smudges on the rest from the blazers. However, I also know it's a catch 22... if I start messing with the bow, I have to dial in all over again.

Excellent info gentlemen.

Hopefully I'll be able to sleep tonight!

The Razor Edge is a true dual-cam bow, meaning that consistency in valley is critical due to timing.
What this means is that if timing is slightly off, and you bottom the cams out differently from shot to shot, you will definately have different POI from your arrows.
Keep the timing in check.

[Lynda]

The Razor Edge is a true dual-cam bow......
Keep the timing in check.

Yes sir. It has been checked a couple of times but not recently. Good point.

[Lynda]

I will add a couple of things to what Rocky said. I think that by having a heavy arrow and more FOC will make a more forgiving and accurate arrow. At least it did for me.

See, that's completely logical to me when you think about momentum and steadiness gained by weight, but I guess there's a point when it will work against you. I might be a speed demon on the road, but would rather have accuracy over fps.

Now my head's spinning. Ha!

[Brack]

(1) 2x4 + (4) nails = Poor man's spin tester.

>>--------->
___X____X___

An even cheaper spin tester is to put a broadhead on your arrow, place the tip of the broadhead on the tip of your finger, and spin it like a top. It should spin true with no wobble felt.

As far as tolerance goes, I have never tested different tolerances, but I have read that you won't notice much difference until you get past 40 yards. I shoot XT Hunters .003, and I can hit what I am aiming at at 50 yards.

As far as the fliers, I agree with twisting or replacing the nocks. I have had some fletches that were not perfectly in line, and they still flew well, but it might be worth a try to replace them. If you still have problems with them, save them for varmints.