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    Broadhead tuning problem?

    2010 Elite Judge
    29", 70#
    Ripcord Code Red rest
    29 1/2" CarbonTech Rhino 55/80
    Blazers
    475 grains assembled
    100 grain field points and Thunderheads

    My CarbonTech arrows are stiff and with my old bow (PSE) broadheads shot left of field points, so I'd adjust sights for 3d or hunting.

    The new Elite paper tuned when I got it, both field points and broadheads flew nicely- but the same problem: broadheads grouped 3-4 inches left of field points. The Easton tuning guide shows to adjust rest towards riser.

    I tried moving in small increments (1/32") towards riser and the checking with 2 field point arrows and 2 broadheads. Before it got dark tonight, I had moved the rest a good 3/16" towards the riser.

    The arrows obviously impact to the right, so I adjusted my sight to keep the arrows on the insert I was using as a target. Even moving the rest to where it's looking like it's too-far in to the riser (center of arrow is 7/8" from the riser now), the distance between field points (white fletching) and broadheads (green) stayed 3". I'm wondering what to do now- the rest can't go much further in.

    The other strange thing, is as the rest is moving towards the riser, the nocks on the broadheads are striking much lower- see the second picture. The field points were level with ground, the insert is leaning on the chair in garage for the picture.

    Suggestions?




    #2
    Sounds like my situation a little. I hope you can get it figured out, good luck.

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      #3
      I hope it's the biggest problem I have in 2011!

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        #4
        Go back to original Center shot. Then adjust poundage up 5 pounds and down 5 pounds. See where they hit. If up closes the gap you are over spined. If down worsens then over spined.
        Correction can also be made with increasing the weight of the point to decrease spine or decrease point weight to increase spine.
        Roy

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          #5
          Originally posted by ram6256 View Post
          Go back to original Center shot. Then adjust poundage up 5 pounds and down 5 pounds. See where they hit. If up closes the gap you are over spined. If down worsens then over spined.
          Correction can also be made with increasing the weight of the point to decrease spine or decrease point weight to increase spine.
          Roy
          Adjusting your draw weight is very often a necessary part of Broadhead tuning in my experience. Sometimes you get lucky and don't have to.

          You adjust the rest and nock point to get your centershot with papertuning and walk back tuning. Then match the bow to the arrow spine by adjusting draw weight up and down. (or change head weight).

          I start with 1/2 turn adjustments then correct with 1/4 turn adjustments to 1/8 turn adjustments until I get it.

          Always, if you have tail up or tail down flight during tuning, correct the nock point position first.

          Comment


            #6
            Your center shot may be different then what the manufacturers says it is because everyone's hand and form is a little different, and we all torque the bow a little bit different. I would do this. After you paper tune, Walk back tune. It will give you a truer center shot. Also, make sure you are not having any clearance issues with your fletching. Athletes Foot spray powder on the fletching is a good way to do this. If you think your spine is right on your arrow, I would consider a different broadhead that may not catch as much wind if you are still having problems(such as slick tricks or something like that). Thunderheads don't always fly perfect for everyone. Also, make sure there is no wobble when you spin check your broadheads on your arrow. They should be a perfect match, and they should spin like a top if you want them to fly well. Best of luck to you.

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              #7
              I can tell you for starters that the centershot on a Judge is not close to the riser at all. All of the 2010 Elites tune way left out towards the edge of the shelf. It will be well left of the centerline of the grip. Your centershot is gonna be 7/8" at least from the riser.

              With those arrows being a .300 spine you are not gonna be able to move the rest towards the riser and solve the spine issue. It is too much to overcome. That is why moving the rest did not fix it.

              Going down in poundage is gonna make it even worse. I do not think even twisting it up to 75 pounds would fix the issue.

              I shot a .359 spine out of a 29/73 Synergy for years with zero issues. A .340 spine will work with your setup to get you there. SHould be about perfect.

              The other option is to go to a 125 grain fp and bh. That will weaken the spine and might bring it together. It is worth trying to avoid buying new arrows.

              I am pretty familiar with Elites, so let me know if I can help.

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                #8
                Thanks. With my old bow at 70# I found fletched and bare shafts field points grouped with 145 grain tips, which is why I suspected the 55/80s are over spined. While my bow is supposed to be 29", my arrows extend about 2" beyond the riser, which should help with the spine, gets a broadhead in front of my left hand, and being I like a heavy arrow, made it a little heavier.

                Since the bow us maxed- out for poundage (71), and I don't want to have to go to 4 blade Muzzys for the weight, I'm going to but the rest back where I started, re-set my pin since its way right now, and live with a 30-second adjustment when I switch from 3d to hunting.

                Broadheads have flown nicely and grouped well out to 40 yards which was where I stopped shooting into the bh sandpit at the range.

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                  #9
                  I have seen tuning(broadhead) issues occur when we go past the sweet spot.
                  In other words, we continue to move POI of Bheads and Fps equally, because that's what they tell us to do.(false read)
                  Go way outside, then start moving the rest in in small increments.
                  Keep in mind, I'm of the opinion that it is rare to experience problems from an arrow that is too stiff.
                  Of the few Elites that I've tuned, the tendency is outside is where they like.

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                    #10
                    Went to local shop, Mike started with watching me shoot and my form. Part of problem was due to torquing bow on release, he put in new cam module and lengthened draw 1", to 29" which took a lot of bend out of left arm, but still some at full draw. Bullet hole through paper. We then moved the rest slightly in/out and got it to 20 yard mixed bh/ field point groups like this.

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                      #11
                      Looks like your problem's solved!

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by WyoHunter View Post
                        Looks like your problem's solved!
                        x2

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by Bill in San Jose View Post
                          He put in new cam module and lengthened draw 1", to 29"
                          Good to hear that it's working better for you now. As others have already said it looks like your original setup was overspined, adding that extra inch in the bow's powerstroke definitely helped with the tune. You could probably do a bareshaft tune at this point to maximize your efficiency and tighten your mixed groups even more.

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                            #14
                            Good! Congrats on getting it set up !

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                              #15
                              I went to another archery shop with a shoot through chronograph. Those hunting arrows at 490 grains are sailing at 280 fps from the elite.

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