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Sight/Rest/D Loop HELP!!?!?

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    Sight/Rest/D Loop HELP!!?!?

    Ok I added pictures. Maybe this will help with my busted up description.

    My true glow sight is hanging low from the main brace that holds it to the riser. It looks bad, but works flawlessly.

    It was paper tuned this way. It works every time and shoots great. It just looks all jacked up!

    Heres my question: What happens if I move my D loop down to raise the sight up? The D loop goes down and the arrow will shoot higher but my tear in the paper will not be the same?

    So do I just leave it jacked up and shooting great or try to fix it for purely cosmetic reasons?

    Just thought I'd ask the Brain Trust!

    Sorry for the I phone pics.
    Attached Files

    #2
    leave it alone! you don't want to move the d loop because the arrow will not the leaving to bow level after you do.

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      #3
      Thats what I was thinking. But why on earth is it set up like this?

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        #4
        My setup us the same way. I shoot a redhead toxik. Someone said the sight mounting holes are higher than most bows. Its not pretty, but my groups are.

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          #5
          You could consider moving the peep sight down, which should allow you to move the sight gang up.....this would not affect the paper tuning, etc. I think there could be more than cosmetic benefit to finding a way to raise the sight gang - for example, in its current state it looks like it might be vulnerable to snagging on brush, etc. in the field...

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            #6
            Moving the peep will force him to move out of his natural head position. I've had no problems with my sight body all the way down.

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              #7
              How high up is your peep set?

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                #8
                Originally posted by rgb View Post
                You could consider moving the peep sight down, which should allow you to move the sight gang up.....this would not affect the paper tuning, etc. I think there could be more than cosmetic benefit to finding a way to raise the sight gang - for example, in its current state it looks like it might be vulnerable to snagging on brush, etc. in the field...
                X2...

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                  #9
                  Im not a kisser fan, I put the vane in the corner of my mouth. If I moved the peep any lower, I would lose my rest point, that would throw my accuracy out the window!

                  Definately not an option.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Coach W View Post
                    Im not a kisser fan, I put the vane in the corner of my mouth. If I moved the peep any lower, I would lose my rest point, that would throw my accuracy out the window!

                    Definately not an option.
                    If your bow is tuned correctly, to raise your sights, you are going to have to lower your anchor point, which will allow you to raise your peep, raising your sight window.
                    The most widely adopted anchor point is knuckle in pocket under earlobe, string touching nose and corner of mouth. This will put the vane touching the side of your chin, lower than the corner of your mouth.

                    With bows, in 99% of all cases, if anything is way out of center, (horizontally or vertically), something is wrong, or something is being done wrong.

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                      #11
                      Check to make sure your rest is mounted level with the burger holes on the riser. Then, check level with your d loop and rest. You want the arrow to be lightly tail high but the bubble will still be in the lines on the level. If everything is square, then leave her be. What poundage are you shooting? If you are shooting good groups and your ancher points are good, I wouldn't touch a darn thing.

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                        #12
                        You use all 6 pins on that sight? If so, that is the closest I have ever seen pin gap between 40-50, 50-60 and in your case, 60-70!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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                          #13
                          Why fix it if it ain't broke, if it shoots straight leave it alone.

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by Zoch'10 View Post
                            You use all 6 pins on that sight? If so, that is the closest I have ever seen pin gap between 40-50, 50-60 and in your case, 60-70!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
                            Ya i use em all. I shoot 68 lbs. And i shoot birds rabbits squirells etc. Pins are 10-20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45.
                            Makes a big difference on smaller game. Easier than guessing when ur trying to brain a squirrel at 40.

                            Wisker is in the middle of the berger. This one is non adjustable elevation.

                            I really dont want to move my anchor point at all. Been shooting the way i do since i was 6 or so. Changing now would require some sort of brain operation.

                            Seems like i will just let it be. Its not in the way, shoots great. And consistant. And it has enough material to still make a rock solid contact so i guess im good!

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                              #15
                              I love the tru Glo sights, but I have to admit I hate the same thing about them that you are experiencing. My Sword Accusite Micro 3rd Plane is also jacked up looking like your Tru Glo, but that is just the way they are built. I think I have seen some of the Cobra sights? having variable level screw holes which allow you to mount the whole mounting bracket higher or lower depending on what mounting hole you use. This allows you to move the sight pin cage up or down to center it more for aesthetics. But do not change your Mechanics to compensate for asthetics, especially if your mechanics are true. If it bothers you that much you may just want to switch over to a sight that has a multiple level mounting holes on the sight.

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