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Arrow flight - tuning?

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    Arrow flight - tuning?

    I'm fairly green to bowhunting, a 20 year gap in shooting a bow. I bought a TecHunter Extreme 2 from Gander Mountain with 60 lb. limbs in Left-Handed. For those hung up on manufacturers, it's a TecHunter by Diamond by Bowtech. The GM pro shop set it all up and I was shooting 3"-4" groups right away. As I shoot more, I notice the arrow flight makes a curve to the right then back left. Upon looking at the arrow in the block or target, you can see the angle of the arrow. It looks as if the arrow was shot from the right with a slight angle to the left.

    I'm sure I need to paper tune, haven't had time yet. I'm still sighting in my pins at this time and getting comfortable.

    60# DW
    27 1/2" DL
    Hostage Rest
    Beman ICS Hunter 400gr with 100gr. Field Tips at 27 1/4"

    If this all makes sense, is that normal? Or is the tuning off? And how the heck do I correct this?

    #2
    did gander mtn not tune the bow when they set it up? maybe try adjusting the rest. shoot it through paper and see what kind of tear you get center shot could be off

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      #3
      I totally agree with paper tuning, BUT, walk back tuning will get you close and then broadhead tuning will get you spot on alot quicker IMHO. There are a bunch of good tuning videos on youtube. Good luck and have fun. Also, welcome back to shooting a bow and I am glad to see another lefty in the bunch!

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        #4
        I usually use paper tuning and then I follow up with walk back tuning. There are some websites that demonstrate how to do this.

        As far as your bow getting out of tune, what could be happening is your string is new, and it takes somewhere betwen 50 and a couple of hundred shots for it to settle down. I would send a few arrows to get your string to settle then tune. Once everything is back in place and tuned up, mark your cam with a sharpie (if your cam is not marked to indicate movement in your string or cable). Good luck

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          #5
          Another Lefty!!!

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            #6
            I paper tune, and bare shaft tune. Sounds to me like your rest is off center. Paper tune it and correct for tears. Should solve the problem. Unless ur fletchings are hitting rest. Paper tune gives u exact readable results. I recently put a new rest on mine and hope to tune in the backyard today!

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              #7
              Originally posted by runnin2live View Post
              I totally agree with paper tuning, BUT, walk back tuning will get you close and then broadhead tuning will get you spot on alot quicker IMHO. There are a bunch of good tuning videos on youtube. Good luck and have fun. Also, welcome back to shooting a bow and I am glad to see another lefty in the bunch!
              ding ding this is the perfectly correct answer.

              Gander Mountain typically do not have the skill sets to truly tune a bow. Candidly depending on the bow it's something that could take between 30 minutes to a couple of hours.

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                #8
                COULD be a tuning issue .....
                .
                COULD be a spine issue......

                If arrows are straight fletched that could also be an issue ..... might have several issues.

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                  #9
                  It's probably a user error issue. It may be my form in general. I'm not a very steady person.

                  I walk-back tuned and it seems fine. I put paper about 5' in front of target and stepped back about 10 yards and holes looked clean. I may re-do that with a 6-7' gap between me and paper and then target.

                  I did throw a Muzzy test broadhead on, and shot about 4" left and low. I still can't fathom how broadhead tuning doesn't throw off one or the other.
                  Last edited by Keithb; 03-31-2011, 11:32 AM.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by rocky
                    Paper-tuning or walk-back tuning your bow doesn't mean it's tuned.
                    Paper-tuning simply reveals issues that need addressing, both horizontaly and vertically.
                    These issues are center-shot, nock point, cam timing/positioning, cam lean,and arrow spine among others.
                    Walk-back tuning predominately addresses horizontal center-shot.
                    deleting improperly dated post.
                    My Flickr Photos

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                      #11
                      If your set up is not correct fixed broadheads will make it show up even more. Low left move your rest about a 1/32 of and inch to the right a little at a time and move your nock point down about 1/16 of and inch to start moving your nock point down will bring the arrow slightly up. When your arrow is nocked and the rest is in the shooting position does the arrow run thru the center of the berger hole? Think of the broadhead as a wing if it is pointing slightly to the right or left it is going to catch opposing force and cause it to go the opposite direction.

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by Keithb View Post
                        I did throw a Muzzy test broadhead on, and shot about 4" left and low. I still can't fathom how broadhead tuning doesn't throw off one or the other.
                        i used to shoot muzzy's and the practice head never flew anywhere near the head with actual hunting blades out of my bows

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                          #13
                          If you are new, muzzy's are not the most forgiving of form errors. G5 strikers and slick tricks fly the best out of my set up even when my form is not the greatest. I'm no expert, but I have never gotten muzzy's to fly as well as those 2.

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                            #14
                            Keith, if you are sure that your bow is tune, next check your broadhead and arrow. If they do not line up just perfect, it could affect your flight as well. I usually screw my broadhead on; then I put the tip of the broadhead on my fingertip and spin it like a top. If it spins smoothly, it will probably be fine, but if you feel any wobble, this will also cause your broadheads to fly different then your field points. Furthermore, you might also try a different fixed broadhead if the muzzy's don't work for you. I have also had some trouble in the past getting muzzy's to fly well.

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                              #15
                              I shot them with a crossbow last year as testing and the muzzy and field points shot the same. I was looking at possibly using the Rage or NAP blood runners although the reviews are up in the air.

                              I might just grab some Montec's and be done with it.

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