Ok broadhead tuning gurus, got a question for y'all. First off, I'll tell y'all what equipment im using. I'm shooting a Z7, 28" draw, and maxed out at 70-72 lbs (havent put her on a scale yet). I am shooting easton axis nfused carbon 400 arrows at 27". Now, I would shoot one field point, then i would shoot the broadhead and I would consistenly get my broadhead shooting 2.5" to 3.5" low (a bit of wind today), as you can see in the picture. Easton tuning guide says to lower my knocking point, but I dont feel like takin it to the shop and have em fuss with it. Can I raise my rest a fuzz to get my BH and field points hitting in the exact same location or should i just not even worry about it and readjust my sight when i go hunting? Thanks guys! (these shots were at 20 yards, shotting a grizz trick, 100grain)
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
BH tuning with pic
Collapse
X
-
As others have said, yes you can raise your rest. If you are shooting a drop away you might need to reset your timing after you have everything dialed in. Another thing I've found to be helpful is to shoot groups when doing this type of tuning. Sometimes I don't shoot perfectly doing the whole one fp one bh thing and shooting two and two or three and three is a more reliable way to see the trends in your arrow flight. It appears that the bh also hit slightly to the right of the field tip (showing weak spine), if you get the same results when grouping you can back your limb bolts off (1/4 turn at a time) to strengthen the spine of the arrow and get your arrow hitting on the same vertical plane. My tuning process consists of bareshaft tuning to establish nock height and verify arrow spine, following by walk back tuning to set centershot, and the a broadhead test to insure everything is kosher. If I can get the first two steps dead on my broadheads usually group with fieldtips with no further adjustments needed. Good luck and post some pics when you get er all figured out.
Comment
Comment