Vane clearance and cables

[PSD Ryan]

I was looking to get a new set of Easton ST Epics and thinking about fletching options. I really wanted to get some blazer vanes, but I don't think it's gonna happen. I don't even have clearance for duravanes! Check out the pics. I shoot cock fletch up, not sideways, and straight vanes, but I also want helical, and it's showing some wear on the cable too from the fletchings hitting it. Bow is a Redhead Toxik (by diamond).

Is there a way to increase cable clearance? I've heard you can get a different cable slide that pulls them closer to the rod, but what brand should I go with to get the most clearance? I've also heard about an entire offset cable guard. Is this something I can get with this bow, and how hard will it make to tune and shoot right? Will I ever clear blazers?

[rocky]

Unique Teflon slide, and check center-shot.
Take a picture from top of bow, showing arrow sticking out in front of center line of limbs and we might be able to tell if center-shot is too far inside.

[PSD Ryan]

I can't get a good picture of it, but I checked center shot. With the cam, wheel, and arrow all perfectly in line vertically, the arrow is coming straight out the middle of the limb bolt, parallel to everything, so center shot is good. I pushed in on the cable a little bit, and if the downward cable moves a tiny bit closer to the rod, it won't have a problem clearing duravanes, even helical, so I'll try the unique slide.

As for blazers, I don't know how much more clearance I need, but I think I'd need an offset rod, which I have no idea what would fit or where to get one. Wish I had researched this before I got the bow. Found a few comments about low vane clearance.

I also think I need to go to smithfield and get it retuned after getting the new slide, because pushing that downward cable in definitely tweaks the yoke. Might have to get cam lean taken care of.

[PSD Ryan]

With this:

http://www.sausa.com/product.php?id=33&category=44

I think I could adjust clearance. Unfortunately with the redhead bows, diamond did not provide any clearance adjustment. The rod just comes straight out of the riser.

[oktx]

This one of the main reasons I don't use Blazers.

[PSD Ryan]

Guess I'll stick to duravanes. Blazers look cool, and probably work great, but I'm not having problems with duravanes, so why fix whats not broke.

[texanhoyt]

i am going through the same thing put blazers on 18 arrows a few weaks ago. ended up striping them off and about to put the 4 inchers back on. I was the same way there was no problem with my 4 inchers in the first place just like you I thought the blazers looked cool.

[rocky]

Make sure the cable-rod has not become loose and backed out slightly.

[3children]

Is there anymore room to twist the nock just a bit. Get the top vane closer to the cable. An offset cable guard would give you a lot more clearance. The ones I have are threaded in, but you can cut the end off. Maybe have one made.

[Txbhunter1]

I have a buddy of mine that shoots a Parker and he had the same issues with clearance. I had him turn his nocks so that his cock feather was out instead of up like he normally had been shooting and all was good. Since you shoot a drop away rest, position of the feather should make no difference, up,down or out.

[Centex]

I have the same problem with a Browning bow I was given. You're not going to like my recommendation, but if you switch to feathers you would eliminate the problem. Feather fletching has better "fold down forgiveness" according to true flight. Also my bow pro told me that any repeated contact to plastic vanes would begin to warp the vanes edge over time (even more so with four inch vanes).

[sodapop15]

I have a buddy of mine that shoots a Parker and he had the same issues with clearance. I had him turn his nocks so that his cock feather was out instead of up like he normally had been shooting and all was good. Since you shoot a drop away rest, position of the feather should make no difference, up,down or out.

It looks like you have a QAD ultrarest. I had the same problem with my mathews reezen. I had the QAD ultrarest on it as well. My dad had a trophy taker rest on his and was able to turn his cock vane out to 9:00 and it fixed all clearance problems. If you do this with the ulrtarest the vanes will hit the rest. I'm not nocking the ultrarest as I think it is one of the best rest out there, just letting you know my personal experiance.

[rocky]

Nearly all bows are engineered so that when center-shot is set correctly, cable contact with vanes, even Blazers is avoided.
In most cases, when Blazers are contacting cables in a cock vane up or down setting, either the cable-rod is slipping out and angling in, or center-shot is set too far inside.
There are exceptions, but today, these are few.

[Heckmonkey]

I too have the same problem, 2 inch blazer vanes on what I think are redhead arrows from B. ProShop??? I have a 2008 diamond black ice ( Just Bought, Brand New, Never Used,) with an HHA drop away rest, pulling 68 lbs, with a 28 inch draw length. If I have the nock in normal position, my vanes hit cable, if I turn my nock to have cock feather facing out, I clear cables but the bottom fletching hits the right arm of my rest? Did a foot powder test and it shows. I dont care which length my fletching is or to be honest how cool certain vanes look, I had a feeling when buying these that there maybe a clearence issue. I just want a clean shot and to be honest, without a paper test (not sure if that is even an accurate way of telling what angle your arrows are in flight) but when target shooting, my arrows are hitting clean and grouping good, no direction in arrows when in target they are all straight. But that is only at 20-30 yards, hell if I know what would happen with the flight of the arrow at 30+ yards. Also checked for center-shot and it looks straight??? zero cam lean, which is why I am worried about putting on different cable slides cause I have heard about cam lean as a result of doing so? And cable rod is fully attached, no movement, or looseness if such a word exsists. Anyway, just seeing what the best option is here?? or should I just take my bow to a local archery store and have them take a look?

[bowhuntntxn]

sounds like if you adjusted the timing of your rest, you would have no problem at all. maybe a better shop could set up the rest part a little better. worth finding out!