Arrow length in relation to draw length?

[WooleyBooger]

How do you guys figure your arrow length? What would be considered too long an arrow for a specific draw length?

Reason I ask is, I'm having trouble getting a correctly spined arrow for my bow. According to TAP, if I can use a heavier tip, lengthen my arrow, and increase weight just a little...I might have better results. I just don't want to over do it. I would rather change several specs a small amount than one spec a large amount.

So basically, if i'm shooting a 27.5" arrow now with my 28.5" draw length...would going to a 29 or even 30 be too much?

[red]

if you go to a heavier point, longer arrow and increase bow weight you may need a stiffer spine as well.

i just stick with 100gr. points and cut my arrows 1" in front of the rest and choose my spine from there.

[txoutdoorsman24]

Draw your bow back n have someone mark ur arrow either on the edge of the riser or a little back on the riser. As an archery tech, I found out that was the best way to best get the length of an arrow. I have a 29" draw n my arrow measures 29.5", n I used that method to cut my arrows. Goodluck

[Mudslinger]

29" draw and shoot 28" arrows spined on the stiff side. I like my arrows cut off about 1" in front of my rest.

[JBS]

The main thing you want to avoid when you tune an arrow by length is, never have a broad head or point behind your hand. It is best to never have the cutting edge over the top of your hand ether.

[WyoHunter]

29" draw and shoot 28" arrows spined on the stiff side. I like my arrows cut off about 1" in front of my rest.

Me too!

[old killer]

The main thing you want to avoid when you tune an arrow by length is, never have a broad head or point behind your hand. It is best to never have the cutting edge over the top of your hand ether.

Safety should be the first concern.
The lenght of the arrow is determined by spine only. Proper spine is a product of arrow length, point weight, draw weight, draw length, and the cam type.
I always prefer to paper tune a bare shaft, no fletching, to the draw weight I want to shoot.
Safety should always come first.

[Bill]

If you arrows are over spined, increasing the draw weight to tip weight will help correct. Shortening an arrow increases the effective spine, not lengthening ihe. Personally, I'm afraid of screwing-up (this is a open forum so I won't say what I really fear) with a razor sharp broadhead above my left hand, with all the energy stored in the bow. I like having my broadhead a couple inches beyond the front of the rise to keep the blades away from my hand. But that's a personal preference.

I have found the best way to determine if the spine of an arrow is correct is to follow the procedure in the Easton Tuning Guide (I uploaded it to TBH Campfire forum) for bare shaft testing. Strip a shaft of it's fletching, and compare where it hits at 20 yards with a fletched arrow. NEVER with a broadhead. Then you know exactly what's up, and you don't have rest and nock adjustments to blur the situation. A slightly overspined arrow is not the end of the world, it will hit left of your field points with broadheads (or bare shaft) and then you adjust your sight accordingly. What's more important than broadheads and field points hitting the same point, is that the broadheads group well beyond the max distance you plan on taking a hunting shot. My opinions, anyway.

[eholguin13]

What is your current setup including the bow, weight, cam's and arrows.

[lunchbox84]

you want your arrows to the front of the riaser " best for safty".