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    #16
    The fp's were dead on to start with. When I moved the rest, all arrows, fp's and bh's moved the same direction as the rest. I expected that, but I expected the bh's to move more than the fp's but they did not. The groups never got closer together.

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      #17
      I just resight to broadheads. I have had all my bows professionly turned and the broadheads never hit the same as the field points.

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        #18
        If the spine of the arrows are correct with the draw weight you are shooting they can hit the same point of impact doing the above tuning on post #15. There are lots of things to look at the On Target program can get you more in the ball park with what arrow spine you need. You plug in the weight you want to shoot, what arrow length, broadhead weight cam style etc. If you don't have to shoot exactly 70 pounds then you fine a arrow that hits in about the middle of the scale then play with your poundage and tweak your field points and broadheads to hit the same point of impact. Believe me you can get them really close. I put a broadhead right down the backside of a field pointed arrow a while back.

        Link for software http://www.pinwheelsoftware.com/

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          #19
          I think it may be a rest issue (contact). The think your arrow spine is ok.

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            #20
            How big does the string in the tuning method mentioned need to be?


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              #21
              Originally posted by Nitro1970 View Post
              How big does the string in the tuning method mentioned need to be?


              Sent with iPhone using Tapatalk
              I use a shoestring. I tie a nut on the end to make it hang straight down.

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                #22
                Thanks I'm fixing to give it a try


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                  #23
                  This may be old news but I have seen where arrows flechted with plastic vane have shown identical groups inches apart.

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                    #24
                    Make sure you aren't inducing torque on your bow hand.

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                      #25
                      Subscribing to this, as I'm having similar issues. Even had my bow checked by the pro shop an was told it was perfect.

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                        #26
                        I just screw on my expandibles and shoot. Never practice with them. Been doing that for 10 years and haven't had a problem yet.

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                          #27
                          After two days of chasing my field points around to no good end, I tried the French tuning method and the results say I'm good to go but I changed nothing to my setup.

                          After several pms to oktx, he mentioned that it sounded like an overspine reaction. Humm... The arrows Ive been using for my Katera (70# 28" draw) with excellent results are .340 spine cut to 28" w/ tips so I thought they would fill the bill with the bow I'm having difficulty with, a 70# 28" Judge.

                          Laying in bed, I got to thinking about oktx's overspine (OT2 has the shaft listed as weak for both bows) comment so I find some .400 cut to 29" and head to the garage for some paper tuning. Granted the .400 I had are fletched with 3 5" feathers but that all I have for now. So 1st shot through paper still resulted in a small right tear. So I screwed on a 125gr tip and fired shot two...bullet hole at 7'. Backed up to about 12"... bullet hole. One more shot at around 22'...bullet hole. Hummm outside we go.

                          1st shot at 15yds...slightly right...adjust sights. 2nd shot center. Back up to 20...dead center. Out to 30...dead center. Time for BH (125gr Thunderhead). 20yds...dead center. Back up to 30yds...dead center.

                          Beats the heck out of me why the .340 shows on the chart to be weak but shows stiff out of the bow and one that shows grossly weak shoots fine but I'm liking the results so far. Surely it just can't be the difference in fletch???

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                            #28
                            Went thru this too. Finally did the old school paper tune with no fletching. Got her dialed in with whatever points I screw on em.

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                              #29
                              I know the general belief is that bh and fp should fly the same but I have always had slight differences in where they hit. Nothing huge, maybe an inch or so. Because of that I always set my pins based on my broadheads. It would be different for me if I shot 3d's and hunted with the same bow but I only release arrows when I have and animal in front of me.

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                                #30
                                I am very **** about things but sometimes I over think things. I have bowhunted since I was 16 and am now 38 so I have been doing this for some time. If my broadheads are off an inch at 20-25 yards, I never know if it is a tuning problem or just the wind and form affecting the point of impact. I actually really do not worry about it because that small of a difference can be a result of torquing your bow an 1/8 of an inch and so forth...wind...etc. However, I am probably considered in the dark ages because I do not use a peep, shoot with both eyes open, and use feathers instead of vanes. I have always found that using 3 blade broadheads and aligning them with the fletching flies the best for me. Now that is for me, sometimes changing broadheads solves a lot of problems instead of messing with your rest, pins, etc. This is just my 2 cents so take it for what it is worth.

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