Bow Problem

[Feather Burner]

I shoot a PSE AXE 7 29'' draw 65lb draw with Beman 400 28.5'' long arrow, with 100 grain field tip. I hit the target in thew bulls eye at 20 yards. When I shoot a broad head (fixed/mechanical) it shoots about 6'' high. What causes this? Do I need to go to a 340 arrow?

[rainbow trout]

I think the cut off line on IBO is 60# with the 400 spine mabye you do need a stiffer spine ????? Hum???? "Some one" knows more than I on here.

[Mike Javi Cooper]

first check your nock height..

But yes a .400 spine is too weak for the Axe at 29/65

[Feather Burner]

What do you mean by nock height?

[Ksig512]

check this out.. http://www.youtube.com/user/grttaxi#p/u/1/Dm_mBH9lhRw

[3children]

You will need to lower your rest or raise your nock. Do a search on here and find the pictures about broadhead tuning. Follow your field points, after they group together, then adjust your site. Move one adjustment only at a time, if the group gets wider then go the other way! Move only in small increments.

[Extremebowman]

What do you mean by nock height?

Where your nock is placed on the string, could be too high or low.

But, my first question is whether your broadheads are all grouping together. Back when I shot fixed blades I was obsessive about tuning them. I would have 3 arrows with field points, and 3 with BH's. Shoot them all and check the groups. It was not unusual to have 2 distinct groups for the FP's & BH's. Shoot the BH's one arrow at a time and mark their spots, if you are grouping them good, well they won't last long if you shoot 3 at a time If they are all grouping good, even if the different tips are grouping differently, that is a relatively easy tuning job.

Are your FP's and BH's the same weight?

I would move to a heavier spine too.

[Feather Burner]

Yes my bh's and fp's are the same weight.

[rocky]

first check your nock height..

But yes a .400 spine is too weak for the Axe at 29/65

I agree, but I think the problem more than likely will turn out to be a timing issue either with the cams or the rest, (in the event you are using a fall-away rest).
At least noone has suggested the old standby,fixall, walk-back tune, that in no way addresses this tuning problem.

[TobyR.]

check this out.. http://www.youtube.com/user/grttaxi#p/u/1/Dm_mBH9lhRw

???? I watched this video and have some serious doubts about the effectiveness of his "bowtuning tip"... He states that the field point will still impact the same after making 2 adjustments to his rest.. I don't think that is going to happen. In effect all he is doing is moving his rest so that the arrow hits where his field point WAS hitting before the adjustments. I think he is assuming way to much in his initial set-up.
I personally prefer to get a good basic "tune" and shoot at a longer distance and if the broadheads are grouping well (which they won't if you set up is bad) and just move my sight to hit where I am aiming. The arrow with a field point is a totally different critter than the one with a broadhead. Just my .02

[Feather Burner]

I just ordered Beman ICS 340 arrows. We'll see next week!

[RIFLE]

I think the Beman 400's should be stiff enough, and the 340's may be too stiff... You really need to check your arrow flight and consistancy with the BH's. I go through the whole 9 yds to tune my hunting arrows properly then set my sights to match, which of sourse is a different setting than with just FP's.

Also, if you have room, you can cut the 400's a little shorter to make them a little stiffer, but only if you have room.