Originally posted by DaveC
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The holes that your rest screw into on the riser.
Normally you want to set up where the arrow is dang near covering the holes when you look at the rig from the side (with the arrow at rest).
A bow can be tuned to shoot great with the arrow above or below the holes, but doing so will also bring the sight housing up or down with the initial set up to match the flight of the arrow above or below the center of the riser.
Used to be the bow was set up where the arrow rest placed the arrow directly beside the berger holes to establish the knocking point of the arrow. Move the rest up a 1/4 or 1/2 inch and everything else will follow (knocking point and peep sight) but then your sights will also be higher than need be.
I always felt the arrow needed to be nearest center of the string to provide the longest power stroke the bow had to offer (this = speed and level nock travel) . Single cams used to want the nock high to provide good flight since the nock travel on most single cams wasn't as straight as dual cam/ hybrid cam models.
To exaggerate the example. Let’s say you moved your arrow rest up 1", nock up 1" and peep up 1". The bow could still be tuned to shoot bullet hole arrows, but this means your sight would be higher than normal as well to accommodate the arrows leaving the riser higher than designed.
On the opposite end, if you are shooting a drop away and the drop allows your arrow to fall below square while leaving the string the arrow will land lower on the target than if the drop was tuned to have the arrow leave higher or normal level as it exits the bow.
To test this- If you are shooting a drop away- - shoot a bare shaft arrow through the drop away at the target. Then shoot another bare shaft with the drop away held in the up position (a chunk of foam is what I used) and see if the arrow lands with, higher or lower than the other arrow.
But heck, if everything else is good, just slap on the drop down bar you have coming in the mail and get to shooting
.
What you'll have to watch out for next is making sure the drop down bar doesn't place the sight in your arrow/ vane flight path.
What will most likely happen when you add the drop down bar is you'll need to now raise the sight elevation holes to bring the adjustment slide to a full range of use- the desired 20 at the bottom.
I hope some of my ramblings are making sense (I know what I'm trying to say
)
Normally you want to set up where the arrow is dang near covering the holes when you look at the rig from the side (with the arrow at rest).
A bow can be tuned to shoot great with the arrow above or below the holes, but doing so will also bring the sight housing up or down with the initial set up to match the flight of the arrow above or below the center of the riser.
Used to be the bow was set up where the arrow rest placed the arrow directly beside the berger holes to establish the knocking point of the arrow. Move the rest up a 1/4 or 1/2 inch and everything else will follow (knocking point and peep sight) but then your sights will also be higher than need be.
I always felt the arrow needed to be nearest center of the string to provide the longest power stroke the bow had to offer (this = speed and level nock travel) . Single cams used to want the nock high to provide good flight since the nock travel on most single cams wasn't as straight as dual cam/ hybrid cam models.
To exaggerate the example. Let’s say you moved your arrow rest up 1", nock up 1" and peep up 1". The bow could still be tuned to shoot bullet hole arrows, but this means your sight would be higher than normal as well to accommodate the arrows leaving the riser higher than designed.
On the opposite end, if you are shooting a drop away and the drop allows your arrow to fall below square while leaving the string the arrow will land lower on the target than if the drop was tuned to have the arrow leave higher or normal level as it exits the bow.
To test this- If you are shooting a drop away- - shoot a bare shaft arrow through the drop away at the target. Then shoot another bare shaft with the drop away held in the up position (a chunk of foam is what I used) and see if the arrow lands with, higher or lower than the other arrow.
But heck, if everything else is good, just slap on the drop down bar you have coming in the mail and get to shooting

What you'll have to watch out for next is making sure the drop down bar doesn't place the sight in your arrow/ vane flight path.
What will most likely happen when you add the drop down bar is you'll need to now raise the sight elevation holes to bring the adjustment slide to a full range of use- the desired 20 at the bottom.
I hope some of my ramblings are making sense (I know what I'm trying to say

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