Need Bow Tuning Info Please

[BRALEYOUTDOORS]

I've been shooting a bow for years but now my wife and kids have taken an interest in archery. I always had bow shops tune and set up my bow, but now that I have 4-5 bows to keep in tune, I want to learn to do it myself.


If you have any bow tuning info PLEASE post it! I am planning on getting as much info on the subject of archery and keepin them in a folder to reference when ever i need it.

Thanks in Advance!!!

[oktx]

This is the method I use.


Modified Sooner Tuning can be done in your garage.

1) setup a target bag so the bullseye is at YOUR exact shoulder height.

2) hang a string with a weight on the end to pull the string tight.

3) adjust the string so it SPLITS the bullseye right down the middle

4) STEP BACK to 72-inches

5) YUP, only 6 feet.

6) Load a field point arrow

7) fire at the string

8) BE REALLY PICKY...you want to split the fibers of the string into a left and right side....just NEXT to the string is NOT good enough.

ONLY ADJUST THE SIGHT PIN WINDAGE...JUST TINY LEFT TO RIGHT ADJUSTMENTS TO THE SIGHT PIN ONLY,
when shooting at a distance of 6 feet

9) ok, you split the string into a left and right side...pinned it perfectly.

10) NOW, back up to ANY CONVENIENT LONGER DISTANCE

For YOU, might be 12 feet
or could be 19 feet
or could be 22 feet
or could be 29 feet
or could be 33 feet....

WHATEVER longer distance is CONVENIENT for you.

11) NOW, if you are in NO DANGER of destroying arrows,
fire a 3 arrow group.

Size is not important.

Only thing that matter is the CENTER of your 3 arrow group.

IS THE CENTER OF YOUR ARROW GROUP
CENTERED AROUND THE BULLSEYE?

12) IF NOT, then ONLY MOVE THE ARROW REST,
at the longer CONVENIENT shooting distance.

Just move the arrow rest a skosh,
and keep firing arrow groups
until your 3 arrow group is CENTERED on top of the bullseye
at the CONVENIENT TO YOU longer distance.

13) NOT done yet

14) Fire a single field point arrow at the string
at a DISTANCE OF 72-INCHES.

ONLY adjust the sight pin windage (left to right adjustment)
until you can split the string fibers again.

NEXT to the string is not good enough.

15) OK, you can split the string fibers again.

16) YOU know what comes next.

17) Go back to the CONVENIENT TO YOU longer distance.

18) Fire a 3 arrow group.
ONLY adjust the ARROW REST at the CONVENIENT TO YOU longer distance.

Keep making tiny adjustments to the ARROW REST at the longer distance,
until the 3 arrow group is CENTERED on top of the bullseye.



DO this back and forth,
several times,
and then you should be good to go at ANY distance.
__________________
This is a great thread on BH tuning.
discussions.texasbowhunter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135424

__________________
COLOR="Red"]Darton[/color] Pro 3800 [/size

[BRALEYOUTDOORS]

Thanks oktx!!

[atexx2]

I like the walk back method that okie outlined, some don't, but I have found that when you paper tune that sometimes it doesn't quite get it .

I made a frame out of 3/4" pvc for paper tuning, and the paper is craft paper.

I also keep a spirial notebook with data from the measurements that i take from the bow once it is tuned, such as top axel to peep, top axel to string nock, lengths of strings and cable's, name and model of bow, draw lengths, arrow length's and weight's, BH weights, FT weights and just about anything that will help me out when tuning or buying stuff for my bow. This really helps as my memory really suck's.

When I am shooting i will keep notes on arrow placements, I mark the weights of the arrows and write it on the fletchings.

I fletch my own arrows with arrows and vanes i get off ebay.

I started buying from mail order catalogs back in the late 80's.

I wax my string almost every time i shoot.

Out of necessity i learned how to fix my own stuff, when i started shooting there were only 2 places in Dallas and the folks in there knew more than anybody else and were smart mouth's.

[Lafitte23]

oktx,

Does this method correct fishtailing, porpousing or in my case spiraling? I've tried paper tuning and always end up with a high right tear.

[oktx]

oktx,

Does this method correct fishtailing, porpousing or in my case spiraling? I've tried paper tuning and always end up with a high right tear.

pm sent

[atexx2]

fishtailing is due to arrow rest needs to be corrected from side to side, his outline will correct that, the porpoising is due to the string nock placement and the rest height, get the rest in the correct place and move the nock, fix one problem before moving to the next. You can set the rest height to that of the berger hole in the side of the window, that is a starting point.

I did the okie outline last year, my backstop to my target was my wood fence, and at 6' my arrow would bounce back at me.

[ballisticbudda]

Here is a good start.

http://www.eastonarchery.com/pdf/tuning_guide.pdf

[BRALEYOUTDOORS]

Here is a good start.

http://www.eastonarchery.com/pdf/tuning_guide.pdf

NICE....exactly what im looking for......also thanks to oktx, very detailed insturctions

[oktx]

oktx,

Does this method correct fishtailing, porpousing or in my case spiraling? I've tried paper tuning and always end up with a high right tear.

The spine on your arrows may be a little stiff. I not sure that causes corkscrewing. The cork screwing my be an optical illusion from your vanes or may have some vane contact.

[DrtyDawg]

Excellent info.

[Lafitte23]

The spine on your arrows may be a little stiff. I not sure that causes corkscrewing. The cork screwing my be an optical illusion from your vanes or may have some vane contact.

oktx,

PM sent. I just reread my initial post and noticed that I mis spoke about my paper tare. My tares are always high left. I did notice that I was making contact with the rest from shooting with the cock vein pointing down. But even after shooting with the cock vein pointing up I was still making high left tares.

[oktx]

oktx,

PM sent. I just reread my initial post and noticed that I mis spoke about my paper tare. My tares are always high left. I did notice that I was making contact with the rest from shooting with the cock vein pointing down. But even after shooting with the cock vein pointing up I was still making high left tares.

I don't paper tune at all! It will make you pull your hair out. Paper tuning is just a snapshot of what the arrow is doing from 5,10,15 feet away. I only walkback and Broadhead tune. In my unprofessional opinion broadhead tuning is the final tune. Some bows just won't paper tune but I have seen them fly a BH great. Some won't fly a BH but will shoot a perfect bullet hole. I don't hunt paper.

[Lafitte23]

Good point about not hunting paper and I agree paper tuning drives me crazy. The cork screwing isn't really noticable on my bemans with blazer veins. My wife bought me some arrows from Academy that are fletched with 4 in veins. Shooting those arrows is when I really notice the cork screwing. The reason I'm bothered about paper tears is because the last pig that I shot at I hit where I wanted but instead of getting a pass thru or good penetration the arrow slapped up and to the left. A very unhappy pig took off with my arrow sticking out her side. I'm new to bow hunting and that was my first hunt so a lot of my issues could be with hand torque.

Another question...I've read some post about cam lean and twisting the yolk etc. Should I not be concerned with this right now?

[oktx]

Good point about not hunting paper and I agree paper tuning drives me crazy. The cork screwing isn't really noticable on my bemans with blazer veins. My wife bought me some arrows from Academy that are fletched with 4 in veins. Shooting those arrows is when I really notice the cork screwing. The reason I'm bothered about paper tears is because the last pig that I shot at I hit where I wanted but instead of getting a pass thru or good penetration the arrow slapped up and to the left. A very unhappy pig took off with my arrow sticking out her side. I'm new to bow hunting and that was my first hunt so a lot of my issues could be with hand torque.

Another question...I've read some post about cam lean and twisting the yolk etc. Should I not be concerned with this right now?

When you shoot your arrows with BH's are they angled into the target?
I'm guessing you have a single cam bow? Have someone stand behind you and look at the idler while you are at fulldraw with an arrow nocked pointed in a safe direction and look to see if there is any noticeable lean. The string should come off the idler straight.