Fascia and Soffit Replacement

[EastTexun]

Pictures always make a better story. So here's what is motivating me to get this job done! It's gotten really bad really fast.

I have confirmed that my drip edge was installed wrong. The deflection at the bottom kind of sits flush with the fascia instead of kicking out more. I'm not sure there's anything that I can do about that without messing up the first couple of layers of shingles. I may have to take pliers and bend it out. Still thinking about that. Feel free to provide ideas if you can think of a better option.

I know for sure water damage is from the outside. The inside of the roof is bone dry. The top and back side of the sub fascia is bone dry. It's only the slow exposure over time that has gotten wet and rotted. The pictures show 4 different spots but all progressively getting worse.

Are you going to replace all of the fascia and soffit, or just the areas that are rotten? The pictures are helpful, and if it makes you feel better, I saw this all the time when I was doing repaint exteriors. It has already been mentioned, but one reason you are dealing with this IME is the overhand of the roof is short, with no 1x2s under the drip edge to keep the water from running down the edge of the fascia board. This is not uncommon practice, but definitely doesn't help to keep water off the house.

[Big_gun]

Their website will tell you all ya need to know... https://www.jameshardie.com/product-...r/installation

[scott1022]

Are you going to replace all of the fascia and soffit, or just the areas that are rotten? The pictures are helpful, and if it makes you feel better, I saw this all the time when I was doing repaint exteriors. It has already been mentioned, but one reason you are dealing with this IME is the overhand of the roof is short, with no 1x2s under the drip edge to keep the water from running down the edge of the fascia board. This is not uncommon practice, but definitely doesn't help to keep water off the house.

My plan is to replace all of the fascia and soffit.

The areas that have damage are mostly from patch work that I did in 2020. I think that I made those patches a little too tight of a fit and when the wood expanded, it split in some areas and that allowed water in a little at a time until complete failure.

In an effort to avoid the same issue with the drip edge, I've been thinking that I can run foam backer rod behind the existing drip edge. This would force it to kick out like it's supposed to and it would prevent bugs from getting under it. Only question would be how well it would withstand the heat.

[EastTexun]

In an effort to avoid the same issue with the drip edge, I've been thinking that I can run foam backer rod behind the existing drip edge. This would force it to kick out like it's supposed to and it would prevent bugs from getting under it. Only question would be how well it would withstand the heat.

I would caution against the backer rod...not sure you are going to get the desired impact. Might think about bending it out slightly, I am thinking a quarter inch or so along the edge. There are pliers specifically made to make these kinds of bends that sheet metal shops use, but I have no idea what they are called. Instead of normal "teeth" they have 2 flat bars that are about 4 inches in length so you can get a good, smooth bend.

[Sticks&Strings]

I would not do the foam rod. I'd shim the drip edge with some pieces of hardi. Or buy a sheet of 1/4" hardi siding, rip it and wedge between your new fascia and drip edge. And caulk it now and again every few years. Looks like most of your wood issues are due to lack of new caulk and paint. Wood is sensitive.

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[Txhunter3000]

Since he'll be going back with a thinner fascia board (unless he uses a trim piece for fascia) he'll have a gap anyway so no need to do anything, unless the roofers used a drip edge that wasn't bent to the slope of the roof and in that case the drip edge will flex back to the new fascia.

[Scubasteveo]

Since he'll be going back with a thinner fascia board (unless he uses a trim piece for fascia) he'll have a gap anyway so no need to do anything, unless the roofers used a drip edge that wasn't bent to the slope of the roof and in that case the drip edge will flex back to the new fascia.

This brings up a good point, are you using actual Hardie trim boards or using the siding pieces they use now on new houses? If using siding for the fascia you will have a large gap to the drip edge, too large.

I just replaced all of my fascias with pressure treated 1x8, couldn't justify to myself to pay to use Hardie trim. Plus it is alot bigger of a PIA to work with.

[scott1022]

I would not do the foam rod. I'd shim the drip edge with some pieces of hardi. Or buy a sheet of 1/4" hardi siding, rip it and wedge between your new fascia and drip edge. And caulk it now and again every few years. Looks like most of your wood issues are due to lack of new caulk and paint. Wood is sensitive.

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That's a better idea. I was just trying to think of something easy and cheap.

Since he'll be going back with a thinner fascia board (unless he uses a trim piece for fascia) he'll have a gap anyway so no need to do anything, unless the roofers used a drip edge that wasn't bent to the slope of the roof and in that case the drip edge will flex back to the new fascia.

What I priced out is the hardie that is the same thickness of the wood fascia.

This brings up a good point, are you using actual Hardie trim boards or using the siding pieces they use now on new houses? If using siding for the fascia you will have a large gap to the drip edge, too large.

I just replaced all of my fascias with pressure treated 1x8, couldn't justify to myself to pay to use Hardie trim. Plus it is alot bigger of a PIA to work with.

I'm ok with the cost difference assuming that I am going to get a significantly longer life out of the hardie. I don't think that we are going anywhere anytime soon.

I would caution against the backer rod...not sure you are going to get the desired impact. Might think about bending it out slightly, I am thinking a quarter inch or so along the edge. There are pliers specifically made to make these kinds of bends that sheet metal shops use, but I have no idea what they are called. Instead of normal "teeth" they have 2 flat bars that are about 4 inches in length so you can get a good, smooth bend.

Funny you mention those pliers. That's what I had in mind as well, just didn't know what to call them.

[Bowhica]

Gorilla makes a folding leg scaffold perfect for these. Priceless for overhead installations. I'm sure you can find a cheaper version, but theirs has a couple settings for height.

[scott1022]

Gorilla makes a folding leg scaffold perfect for these. Priceless for overhead installations. I'm sure you can find a cheaper version, but theirs has a couple settings for height.

My neighbor has a 16' scaffold plank that I can put up on some risers. I used it to paint the house a couple of years ago. You're right, game changer for overhead work!