Box-Blind Coating Options

[TXBRASS]

My box blind in Terrell County just finished up its third season out there. This sucker is built like a tank, and I plan to take care of it so my kids (now 11-12 years old) and one day their kids can hunt from it. (see the post “Mega-stout box blind” for pics)

If you look at the post mentioned above, you can see that I primed the stand with a kilz, painted it with a 30 year paint, then krylon’d camo over that. I guess the 110 degree summer temps out there are just too much for the paint and I see that it is peeling and flaking off all the way down to the wood.

I’m thinking about buying some rubberized aerosol coating and spraying it completely and then painting over that. We have done that on some metal feeders and it’s held up well.

Any other ideas on what might adhere and last or should I just be ready to repaint ever few years?




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[Low Fence]

I’m finishing one now I’m going to try something. When I do tile showers I use a product called “red guard” it’s basically like the rubber dip that you put on tool handles. It paints on hot pink and dries red and will stretch and shrink and cover 1/4” span. I’m going to do all plywood edges and drip ledges in it. Before painting

[jerp]

I will be interested to see suggestions. When I built my plywood blind years ago I really tried to do it right - two coats of primer and a quality paint for the overcoat. However every year or two I have to do some scraping and touch-up painting. I've wondered if it is just the nature of plywood sitting out in the elements. My guess is no matter how well you seal it and caulk the edges, the humidity and other moisture causes the plys to swell and contract a bit. Eventually that causes the paint to turn loose. Even pressure-treated plywood starts to delaminate if you leave it out long enough.

[Triple 7]

Maybe fiberglass the corners. Its not hard to do and it will hold up a long time.

[Palmetto]

Man, if you were going for that kind of longevity, why didn't you use LP Smartside?
To me, your never gonna get the results you want with a plywood siding. Every few years just expect to repaint. I built my kids a playhouse with the intent to turn it into a blind when they are done with it. I ripped treated 2x4's for the studs, and sheathed it LP smartside. The stuff takes paint well, and is made to last as an exterior siding. My dad has it on his garage, and repainted after 10yrs.

We have some T-Box figerglass blinds, and we repaint them every 2-3 years. It's just part of the game.

[canny]

The next box blind I build I plan on coating it with the Rustoleum 10X Deck Restore Paint. That stuff is thick and is designed to be in the elements so I think it will hold up well on deer stands. Also it fills cracks and will help seal up the edges I think.

[Dale Moser]

Zip board has worked really well for us....but not as good as steel.

[buckfan50]

You have to spend the money and use 100% acrylic exterior paint. I've been in the paint manufacturing business for 20+ years and it works. I still hunt out of a blind we made over 8 years ago out of particle board and it's still holding up only repainted it once because it looked chalky but not because it peeled.

[dogcatcher]

The biggest problem is movement of the blinds. To save weight we cheat/build by using 2x2 instead of 2x4's, or use 2x4's where we should use 2x6's. A blind doesn't have a solid foundation like a building, then too save weight we switch to the 2x2's etc., all this adds up to movement. When you lean on a wall, it shifts, even if it is only a 1/1000 of an inch, that breaks the seal of the paint, and moisture can get through at nail or screw heads. "Well I don't lean on my blind.", no but the wind does, that same movement breaks that paint seal.

Fiberglass, UV is it's biggest enemy and needs paint to protect it. As stated, you have to paint it with quality paint. At the same time a coat of fiberglass helps to prevent movement that exposes those nail or screw heads that allows moisture that destroys plywood to get to the plywood.

[TXBRASS]

I'm going to go with about 10 cans of the aerosol rubber coating and see what happens. It should do great for moisture resistance and is self-etching. Another year in the sun will tell....

[huntandfishguy6]

I built one in 1994. I painted it with gray deck paint. We are still using the stand. The roof in my opinion is the key to stand longevity.

[TXBRASS]

The biggest problem is movement of the blinds. To save weight we cheat/build by using 2x2 instead of 2x4's, or use 2x4's where we should use 2x6's. A blind doesn't have a solid foundation like a building, then too save weight we switch to the 2x2's etc., all this adds up to movement. When you lean on a wall, it shifts, even if it is only a 1/1000 of an inch, that breaks the seal of the paint, and moisture can get through at nail or screw heads. "Well I don't lean on my blind.", no but the wind does, that same movement breaks that paint seal.

Fiberglass, UV is it's biggest enemy and needs paint to protect it. As stated, you have to paint it with quality paint. At the same time a coat of fiberglass helps to prevent movement that exposes those nail or screw heads that allows moisture that destroys plywood to get to the plywood.

This is my blind....movement is not an issue:

https://discussions.texasbowhunter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=580404

[sendit]

Put 30# felt paper over the exterior, it will out last everything posted above combined and then some. Absolutely no need to paint it but you can, there us no up keep.

[BTLowry]

Deck and Porch paint (may be slightly different name) will hold up well.

Had a buddy that painted a pirogue with it and me and some others completely fiberglassed ours and his held up as well as ours out in the elements

[JWalker08]

I just built a stand out of Zip board and used the seam tape for all exposed edges. Hopefully it holds up for a while.