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Polishing Cast Iron Skillet

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    #16
    Originally posted by Grizz83 View Post
    Did that to my 12" Lodge about a year ago, went all the way down to 220 grit and got it very smooth. I have had a really difficult time getting the seasoning to hold ever since. I did another 12" Lodge for my brother but stopped at 80 grit. It's considerably smoother than factory, but not as smooth as mine. His holds a seasoning much better than mine.
    Originally posted by AZST_bowhunter View Post
    So this is my profession... I polish metal (mainly stainless and nickel alloys but we have done a lot of different stuff) In theory, this will not help hold seasoning. When you mechanically polish something you are microscopically smoothing something. This will cause the "wetted" surface to be very slick and have little to no adhesion, this is why the nuclear industry loves our process. Working from a 60 to a 220 will give you above a number 4 finish (which is what is required for food product), this helps keeps bacteria from sticking, this is a 150 grit. I can understand wanting to remove the pitting, but would not go above an 80 grit as it is getting to smooth. You can refinish the surface, hit it with the 60 again then a quick pass with the 80. Try to cross pattern it, do the 60 in this direction----------------- then the 80 in this direction///////////////// microscopically you will have ridges (peaks and valleys) for the oil to sit in and allow for seasoning.. Good luck!!

    Grizz was spot on with stopping at 80
    in the coating industry it's called anchor profile, the seasoning needs something to stick to. Think of trying to paint glass vs. wood... and I agree, I think I went too fine of finish, I think the 80 grit is the right amount. I only cooked on it once before I had to come back to work, I'll be back home in mid-February and will roughen back up with 80 and see how it does.

    I used general purpose sanding discs.

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