Making a Fiberglass Blind

[Flame-Tamer]

I know that a few have used burlap and resin and foam sheeting to make a bow blind. I would like some ideas how if you make a 6'x4' bow blind than how do you make a 4x8 sheet 6 wide or turn it on its side and use 2. Either way you have to patch 2 together. My concern is how strong would 2 foam boards fiberglassed up be to make 2 sides 6' long?

Has anyone tried it. I likethe green ones with bow slots in it but do not like th price????

Please help. Oh ya, the green ones do not have a frame.

Hank

[Need4speed1]

bow blind

Let me start by saying I have built several FG blinds. I have used, through trial and error, many materials and methods. I will address each issue for you.

1. I have found that the best center core is Sturdy R. This material is used widely in commercial buildings where stucco is going to be applied(it is yellow and has a thin layer of fiberglass on both sides). I tried the foil backed insulation, however, the foil does not allow good adhesion of the resin to the core. The sturdi r has excellent adhesion qualities and is more rigid.You will need 5 sheets(they come in 9' which allows you to cut at 6' and the remainder for 1/2 the roof) about 6/12 pitch. $50

2. I use GP polyester resin as it is the most economical option. It will approx. take 5 gallons to do 1 stand. This will cost anywhere from $125-175. Avoid buying by the gallon as this will cost you over $200.

3. I use 3/4 plywood for the floor. To water treat it I cover with a good layer of resin and then 2 coats of olive green latex paint. $25 for ply and $30 paint

4. The door and the windows are the tricky part. I use specialized aluminum parts for windows and doors. Cost about $10/window to build. Door about $40. Since you want to bow hunt, you will need to cut arrow slits and make shoot through screens. Haven't done these yet so I don't know cost. Every cut though the core foam, you will nee to use 1/2" cap. This is available at home depot in the sheetrock section. This cap should be installed prior to fiberglass.

5. For the reinforcement I use gun roving and shoot the fiberglass on. That is an extensive investment $7k so you will need to hand lay with chopped strand mat. 2 layers of 1.5 ounce on inside and outside should be quite strong. You will need lots of coffee can, or buckets or plastic containers. 32 oz gatorade bottles work great. 2" disposable brushes. And a steel roller.(to get bubbles out) and mixing sticks. Also a squeeze bottle for measuring out the MEKP. I have never used burlap and can't comment on its validity as a reinforcement.

Since I buy wholesale my cost are different, but I think this will cost you about $550-600. It will take about 35-45 hours for you to build yourself.
I covered just the basic materials here without the how to. Let me know if you want more help. Sorry so long.

[Big Daddy]

With that list and time to complete I found this you might look at

http://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/spo/956282880.html

[Need4speed1]

With that list and time to complete I found this you might look at
http://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/spo/956282880.html

I agree mostly. I buy my materials in bulk and have tooling that allows me to produce 1 per day. But the question posed in the post was HOW. I went with the understanding that he wanted the satisfaction of building it himself. Also, while 4x4 is adequite for a gun hunter and a small child( I sell several of these) it is not big enough nor does it have arrow slits. Furthermore, the windows would be difficult to shoot out of with a bow. But it is a good price on a gun blind. My 4x4 start at 799 w/out carpet. A hex is best for bowhunting.

[Flame-Tamer]

Awesome. Thanx for the info.

I appreciate it.

Hank

[Big Daddy]

Did not know you built them to sell. Thought you were just giving instructions and he might be looking for a good deal.

[Need4speed1]

Did not know you built them to sell. Thought you were just giving instructions and he might be looking for a good deal.

I do sell, but mainly to friends and people I have had direct contact with. To find a stand like that for a good price is nice to share the info. I felt that since I have done several of these I would save FT the heartach of the learning curve I went through. I may market in the future, but for now not. I have given a couple to charities like Buckmasters and youth sports to auction off for proceeds. If FT decides to do one himself I will help in any way possible. If FT pms me I will give him my phone #. Good luck.

[Flame-Tamer]

Thanx for the help offering. I know those guns are expensive. Just wanted to get some pointers to try and do one at home. What are those guns called that shoot the fiberglass??

Thanx,
Hank

[huntinfool]

Chopper guns. I have one and do fiberglass repair for a living. There are several other things you can do, but cost is always a factor. I use 1/2 in. ply for my floors in boats with 2 1.5 ounce mats on them and they are VERY strong. What ever you build it out of will make it heavy, but if weight is not an issue then your fine. I've never used the Sturdy R...but I like the sounds of it. Good luck, and if you need any help or pointers let me know.

[Need4speed1]

Huntinfool knows his stuff. They are chopper guns and there are several types. You could get started with a pneumatic or electric handheld chopper. They are about $300 and work off of a large compressor. They do not wet the surface. You premix the resin and cover the surface, then shoot the glass on and roll it out. Hand lay is your best option. No major equipment to buy and if you are near Houston there is a reasonable supplier there. Huntinfool, the sturdi r make a great sandwich core and it is already covered with a thin layer of FG. Also, one sheet probably weighs 2# I haven't weighed one of my finished 4x6 stands, but 2 guys can pick it up easily, just bulky. I had one in the back of my truck and decided not to tie it down( short distance) BIG MISTAKE. At 55mph it exited the back end and flipped 1+ and landed on roof near peak. Minimal damage. And FG is easy to repair. Tough and light. Beats OSB, plywood and other siding any day of the week.

[Aggiebowhunter03]

Need4Speed- Thinking of trying this too. Where do you get the aluminum for the windows and doors if you dont mind me asking? And do you have to cut it and wrap it around glass? That's where my planning has been locked up.

[huntinfool]

I'm going to get some of the Sturdi-r. we are building some ground blinds right now and this would be perfect.

[Need4speed1]

Need4Speed- Thinking of trying this too. Where do you get the aluminum for the windows and doors if you dont mind me asking? And do you have to cut it and wrap it around glass? That's where my planning has been locked up.

Home depot should have it.Look in the sheetrock section where they keep the bullnose. It should be refered to is j channel. It is 1/2" to fit over standard sized sheetrock. What I do is I shoot the glass after I put this on all openings. This gives the window and door openings strength. After the resin cures, I use an orbital sander on the jamb side and remove cured glass shards. I put the long leg of J to the inside( gives me a solid metal piece to secure my window hinges to). Also, I cut the legs of the J but not the channel, This allows only one joint per opening. Feel free to PM me and I will give my number and will take phone questions. Kevin

[Need4speed1]

I'm going to get some of the Sturdi-r. we are building some ground blinds right now and this would be perfect.

You will like the product. I can't find it anymore in College Station. City codes have prevented its use in res. construction. McCoy's use to carry it and had the remainder of stock on sale. I purchased 100 sheets for a buck a sheet. Now about 9 per sheet. Makes good bow target also.

[Aggiebowhunter03]

Home depot should have it.Look in the sheetrock section where they keep the bullnose. It should be refered to is j channel. It is 1/2" to fit over standard sized sheetrock. What I do is I shoot the glass after I put this on all openings. This gives the window and door openings strength. After the resin cures, I use an orbital sander on the jamb side and remove cured glass shards. I put the long leg of J to the inside( gives me a solid metal piece to secure my window hinges to). Also, I cut the legs of the J but not the channel, This allows only one joint per opening. Feel free to PM me and I will give my number and will take phone questions. Kevin

Good deal. The last thing I can't find are good windows for a decent price. I've found a few online but they are pretty high. Any sources for hinged or sliding windows? I can make some from plexiglass but they always seem to get scratched. Thanks for all of the help!