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Surface drive build(Pic heavy)

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    Surface drive build(Pic heavy)

    Im building an 18hp surface drive and was just going to put this up here in case somebody else wanted to build one. I bought the surface drive plans on ebay just as a guy guide, I'm not going to actually follow the measurements on it. The goal is to build this thing and sell it. I'm making just to run the river for the second half of duck season. Theres a few log jams that I need to jump, but can't with a regular motor. I'll probably build another after this one though. My dream boat would have 2 35hp mud motors with tilt and trim. If I can pick up or build a 16ft or 18ft boat cheap enough, I may build those on my own too. Really just doing this to learn, practice, and problem solve for when I do build bigger ones.

    I'm aiming to stay around $800 for the whole build, I'm doing good so far I think. I'll update the totals as I go along!
    Motor $320
    Prop will be $150
    Metal I have so far is $100
    I think I'll spend another $100 on metal and bolts

    Today I started building the transom mount, this seems to be one of the most complex parts of the build. It's not hard, just time consuming cutting out everything. I'm using a 1/8th steel and cutting it out with a grinder/cutting wheel. On the same but another note I drew out templates of all the pieces that I cut and will cut and probably sell them on ebay for $10 or something. I saw several other transom kits but they were like $150-$200 and some of them you still had to weld. This way someone could just cut the pieces of paper out and trace it onto the metal and cut the metal out.


    So I came up with this bracket design from looking at other peoples online, comparing to the plans, and comparing it to my 18hp evinrude. If I do it again I think I'll give the hook part 2.5" instead of 2". It works though so I won't complain!
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Eagle19; 12-06-2015, 07:12 PM.

    #2
    In for the rest

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      #3
      Didn't have any drilling lubricant so I just used some used car oil instead! I taped them together and clamped them down so I would drill through both plates the same spot. I feel like if you really wanted to you could drill these with a drill but it wouldn't be easy. I had to put my drill press on like 200rpm's and pump the bit so the burs wouldn't get too long. Drilled the holes that will support the motor by eye. Did pretty good except one of the holes looks off by about 1/16th, but it will work since I drilled the brackets on top of each other.
      Attached Files

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        #4
        So I welded all the plates together, and I was getting so frustrated! I could not get and good beads, no matter what adjustments I played with it just looked like dog crap. It was making me so mad, then finally before my last two welds I looked at my polarity for my clamp and gun and for that thickness they needed to be switched. You can see in the second picture how much better the bottom weld looks compared to the top weld. It was way easier and faster too. Luckily I think as many welds that I made on this mount I think it will hold. Not the prettiest but I don't think you'll be able to tell when all is done. If I end up having to make a second one, at least I'll already have templates to use.
        Attached Files

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          #5
          Following.

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            #6
            Hmmm, interesting.

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              #7
              After reading around gates pulleys seem to be the best, after looking them up I went straight to ebay they were so expensive. I wanted to get 21mm belt pulleys but I couldn't find any to get a good enough ratio out of. So I went down to a 12mm. I just hope that doesn't hurt me. But the ratio I'll have is 1.44:1 and everybody says to start around 1.5:1 so I think it should be ok. After all was said and done, it cost me $125 for a bearing, 2 pulleys, 2 pulley adapters, and a tach. I also bought some various seals,bushings, and the driveshaft from Mcmaster-carr. That came out to be $90. Only thing left is bolts, driveshaft housing, a little bit more metal, and the prop.

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                #8
                Looking forward tk seeing the whole build.

                A tip for temporarily stacking items to drill is to use a few small drops of superglue. It sets pretty much instantly and a sharp blow will separate them afterwards.

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                  #9
                  Nice idea on the super glue. Drilling stacked pieces of metal can go wrong quickly. I will keep this information, been there done that and bandaids stopped the fli we.

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                    #10
                    IN!

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                      #11
                      Sub

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                        #12
                        What hp is it going to be? Did you buy your motor new? I built a long tail a few years ago so I can imagine the headache you are going to deal with getting everything to run smoothly. Can't wait to see the final product.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by Felix40 View Post
                          What hp is it going to be? Did you buy your motor new? I built a long tail a few years ago so I can imagine the headache you are going to deal with getting everything to run smoothly. Can't wait to see the final product.
                          After reading all the other builds I'm hoping it will go smoothly! I'm using a new 18hp duromax motor

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                            #14
                            Sorry guys for no updates. Water pump on my truck went out so I've been working on that and it's out me behind on duck calls. Should be back in action tomorrow. Got my drive shaft and bushings in, hopefully I can get the rest of metal and bolts tomorrow!

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                              #15
                              So I'm still in the design phase of the transom mount. I went to the metal store today and found some industrial welding hinges. In the plans I have it calls for some metal tubing and 1/2 rod to create hinges. But you have to create threads using a tap and dye set.(who even enjoys using those things). So my I bought some barrel hinges that already have grease zerks in them. At anything, I will use those on belt housing. But then I really got to thinking, I should use flap hinges instead. Here's what the plan calls for:
                              Attached Files

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