These shells are hard to come by these days. And the die set is rare to find as well. So here is a how to, using info and equipment I learned from multiple people who shared it online.
Dies needed for this:
45 ACP decapping and sizing die. Doesn't matter the brand. I'm using rcbs.
41 magnum SEAT die. I'm using rcbs.
45 ACP bullet seat die, I'm using the Lee die.*this die is the crimp for shotshell. The bullet screw is wider then the rcbs ones. And it makes a difference.
*Lee bullet seat screw from this die is modified a bit to make it work. You will need to remove the bullet screw. Use a polishing rock and a Dremel tool. It's the round one that looks like a dum dum sucker. Polish in the bowl until the edge is gone. Then set a ball peen hammer in the end of the bowl and tap the ball peen with another hammer to flare the edge of the screw. If you flare it to much. You can sand it back down so it will fit snug in the Lee seat die. Basically what you want to do is remove the gap by the side wall of the die and bullet seat screw. Once this is done. The die will crimp the case without issues. If you do not do this step. You will crush the case every time.
Bullet case is a 308. There are others that can be used. However most of the people who have done this say 308 is the closest in size so you do not wear out your extractor or tear the case rim.
Primer: Large Pistol primer, it will counter sink just a tad. Nothing to worry about though.
Powders
Accurate No5 6.5 or 7gr
W231 6gr
Unique 6gr
700x 4.5gr
Lead shot 90 to 115gr depending on shot size.
I used 7-1/2 lead shot
So let's get on with the party.....
First you mark your case 308 case.
They say to cut it between 1.18 to 1.20, I. It mine at 1.195
To cut the case, I think it's cleaner to use a tubing cutter. However you can use what ever works. As long as its strait.
Next you will use the de burr tool and clean up the cut.
Next you will deprime and size the case using the 45acp decapping/size die.
Next clean out the case and primer pocket.
Next using the 41 mag SEAT die with the bullet screw removed. The seat die has more of a tapered edge so the case goes in easy. You may want to lube the case to make it smoother. Also you do not stroke this one all the way. You run it up till you feel it bend just the edge. Then rotat the case 1/4 to 1/3 a turn then run it up again for a little bit more. Then back down and rotat it 1 more time. Then run it up all the way. This necks down the case evenly.
Adjusting this die to your pistols head space will take a bit to get it necked down to the right space. After your die is set. You can neck down with 3 short strokes with 1/3 turns of the case to a full stroke. Then it will be fully necked down.
Testing it with the barrel of the pistol is important.
Here is s shot of how much I necked till I got the head space perfect for my pistols barrel.
And you can check it with a gauge. I did both.
Now once you get it necked down you can prime the case.
Charge it with powder. I used 7gr of accurate no5
Cardboard disc. I used the paper from a primer box and a .40 bullet case.
Used the de burr tool to sharpen the .40 case and put it in a drill. Pushed it down on the primer box paper and cut the disc out.
Put the cardboard disc in the case on top of the powder. Use a ball point pen to pack it in.
Next put your lead shot in just shy of the lip of the case.
Put another cardboard disc on top of the shot.
Now you will use the 45acp Lee bullet seat die with the modified seat screw to crimp roll the case.
After you get a nice crimp on the end. Go back to your 41mag SEAT die.
This will resize the neck back down just incase the roll crimp flared the necked area. Some case you will feel it resize back down after the roll crimp. So I do them all just to make sure I don't get a stuck shell.
Then you end with something like this. This is a picture of the 6th one I made.
Well that's about all I can think of. If anyone has questions. I will eventually reply when I see the post.
Here is a group shot. You can see they got better each time. Although they are just a tad shorter then the factory shotshell. I think they will work fine.
Dies needed for this:
45 ACP decapping and sizing die. Doesn't matter the brand. I'm using rcbs.
41 magnum SEAT die. I'm using rcbs.
45 ACP bullet seat die, I'm using the Lee die.*this die is the crimp for shotshell. The bullet screw is wider then the rcbs ones. And it makes a difference.
*Lee bullet seat screw from this die is modified a bit to make it work. You will need to remove the bullet screw. Use a polishing rock and a Dremel tool. It's the round one that looks like a dum dum sucker. Polish in the bowl until the edge is gone. Then set a ball peen hammer in the end of the bowl and tap the ball peen with another hammer to flare the edge of the screw. If you flare it to much. You can sand it back down so it will fit snug in the Lee seat die. Basically what you want to do is remove the gap by the side wall of the die and bullet seat screw. Once this is done. The die will crimp the case without issues. If you do not do this step. You will crush the case every time.
Bullet case is a 308. There are others that can be used. However most of the people who have done this say 308 is the closest in size so you do not wear out your extractor or tear the case rim.
Primer: Large Pistol primer, it will counter sink just a tad. Nothing to worry about though.
Powders
Accurate No5 6.5 or 7gr
W231 6gr
Unique 6gr
700x 4.5gr
Lead shot 90 to 115gr depending on shot size.
I used 7-1/2 lead shot
So let's get on with the party.....
First you mark your case 308 case.
They say to cut it between 1.18 to 1.20, I. It mine at 1.195
To cut the case, I think it's cleaner to use a tubing cutter. However you can use what ever works. As long as its strait.
Next you will use the de burr tool and clean up the cut.
Next you will deprime and size the case using the 45acp decapping/size die.
Next clean out the case and primer pocket.
Next using the 41 mag SEAT die with the bullet screw removed. The seat die has more of a tapered edge so the case goes in easy. You may want to lube the case to make it smoother. Also you do not stroke this one all the way. You run it up till you feel it bend just the edge. Then rotat the case 1/4 to 1/3 a turn then run it up again for a little bit more. Then back down and rotat it 1 more time. Then run it up all the way. This necks down the case evenly.
Adjusting this die to your pistols head space will take a bit to get it necked down to the right space. After your die is set. You can neck down with 3 short strokes with 1/3 turns of the case to a full stroke. Then it will be fully necked down.
Testing it with the barrel of the pistol is important.
Here is s shot of how much I necked till I got the head space perfect for my pistols barrel.
And you can check it with a gauge. I did both.
Now once you get it necked down you can prime the case.
Charge it with powder. I used 7gr of accurate no5
Cardboard disc. I used the paper from a primer box and a .40 bullet case.
Used the de burr tool to sharpen the .40 case and put it in a drill. Pushed it down on the primer box paper and cut the disc out.
Put the cardboard disc in the case on top of the powder. Use a ball point pen to pack it in.
Next put your lead shot in just shy of the lip of the case.
Put another cardboard disc on top of the shot.
Now you will use the 45acp Lee bullet seat die with the modified seat screw to crimp roll the case.
After you get a nice crimp on the end. Go back to your 41mag SEAT die.
This will resize the neck back down just incase the roll crimp flared the necked area. Some case you will feel it resize back down after the roll crimp. So I do them all just to make sure I don't get a stuck shell.
Then you end with something like this. This is a picture of the 6th one I made.
Well that's about all I can think of. If anyone has questions. I will eventually reply when I see the post.
Here is a group shot. You can see they got better each time. Although they are just a tad shorter then the factory shotshell. I think they will work fine.
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