Kevin, I'm curious how you got the handle part soft enough to drill holes without ruining the temper on the blade.
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File knife without annealing
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Originally posted by SamHarper View PostThat handle is going to be really pretty. I'm curious how long it took you to grind it and what grit you used.
I tempered mine before grinding, too. I put it in the oven at 450ºF for two hours, let it cool, then did it again.
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I saw a good detailed video on heat treating today.
Part 1
THIS IS PART ONE OF A TWO PART VIDEO ON THE HEAT TREATMENT OF STEELS THAT EXPLORES THE THEORY BEHIND DIFFERENT TYPES OF HEAT TREATMENTS. HARDENING (QUENCHING...
Part 2
HEAT TREATMENT OF STEELS 2, HARDENING (QUENCHING), TEMPERING, ANNEALING AND NORMALIZING MARC LECUYERPART TWO OF A TWO PART VIDEO ON THE HEAT TREATMENT OF STEELS THAT EXPLORES THE PRACTICAL SIDE OF HEAT TREATMENTS. HARDENING (QUENCHING), TEMPERING, ANNEALING...
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Also his carbide drill bits will cut harder material so it doesn't need to be as soft to drill.
Why don't you use the torch to harden them? That is what I have used with good success. With a torch, you can even just edge harden them. No need to heat the entire blade. Just apply heat back towards the rear of your bevel, fanning it up and down the blade, and the heat will carry out to the thinner edge of the blade.
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Originally posted by LeanMachine View PostAlso his carbide drill bits will cut harder material so it doesn't need to be as soft to drill.
Why don't you use the torch to harden them? That is what I have used with good success. With a torch, you can even just edge harden them. No need to heat the entire blade. Just apply heat back towards the rear of your bevel, fanning it up and down the blade, and the heat will carry out to the thinner edge of the blade.
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Originally posted by LeanMachine View PostI only heat one side. Wouldn't hurt to rotate it if the blade is thicker than an 1/8 or so.
Beats the crap out of heating up a forge. You can fire up the torch and be done in about 2 minutes.
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It will work fine for the bowie. You might do it in a relatively confined space. Maybe stack up from bricks or something, to keep air flow off of it and to help insulate some. The issue you will have with a larger blade and small heat source is keeping it all at critical temp. But it can be done. I made a large pig sticker for a friend that the blade was 12+ inches.
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Not to hijack a thread but if you heat till red hot actually goin on the back side toward orange and then quickly bury deeply in ashes and let cool for 8 hours you will have an annealed pc of steel. Now do all your grinding and drilling and filework. Then simply take a torch with a bloom and heat the larger areas of the blade first to draw the heat away from the heat sinks created by the tip being thinner and the sudden drop in thickness from the Choil to the plunge and slowly work the heat around until you get an even red to orange hue - take a speaker and clamp it face down on a table so you can drag the blade across the magnet to see when it becomes nonmagnetic at this point run the temp up about 2- 300 degrees more as when you leave the flame to when you quench your going to lose a couple of hundred degrees then ease the tip in first and slide the knife into the quench solution being careful not to move the tip around too much. Hold it in the quench for about 2 min and then wipe off excess oil and let set for a few min then submerse in a mix of dry ice and acetone slush for 5 1/2 hours after that let it sit for 8 hrs. (Kevin and I have a diff of opinion on this part but am willing to go mono a mono with him anytime) After the quench process is done let sit for a few hours to stabilize the steel and start the temper I like to do a triple draw temper after the first temper I like to drop the Temperature five degrees each time so no conflict comes between the first and hardness setting temper. I would never try to grind a tempered knife but that's just me once tempered a knife can only take so much abuse before the blade degrades
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