Thoughts on building a gooseneck utility trailer?

[Skullworks52]

This year for Ag I'm going to build a 18ft gooseneck utility trailer for the school, I'm looking for ideas that would help with the build. For example adding tie downs in certain locations. What would you like to incorporate into a trailer? Also the trailer will be tandem axle, single tire trailer.

[bwssr]

torsion axles, a receiver on the end to piggy back..if needed...receiver at the front so you could slide a winch in....deck mounted tie downs...6 at least....if you do 18' do 20, 18 flat with 2' ramp. ramp that slide in on the curb side. locking box up front for a jack, and chains/straps

[oneisnone]

Also wire in some loading lights across the top, facing to the rear. If your top rail is pipe, add some tie down points to it where you can attach straps/chains. If your going to enclose the wheels with fenders, look at flush mounting your lights inside of the fenders, but make sure to put a cover between them and the tire to keep junk from getting thrown up on them.

[Skullworks52]

torsion axles, a receiver on the end to piggy back..if needed...receiver at the front so you could slide a winch in....deck mounted tie downs...6 at least....if you do 18' do 20, 18 flat with 2' ramp. ramp that slide in on the curb side. locking box up front for a jack, and chains/straps

There is no need for a ramp if it's a utility trailer, it will have lay on ramps, but being how close it is to the ground there shouldn't be a need for a dovetail.?

[bwssr]

I have a lowboy g.n......about a 2-1/2" dove..not much but smooths out the loading...and I us ramps.kawi Mule and tractor..cage the lights..

[LSU_TygerGurl]

torsion axles, a receiver on the end to piggy back..if needed...receiver at the front so you could slide a winch in....deck mounted tie downs...6 at least....if you do 18' do 20, 18 flat with 2' ramp. ramp that slide in on the curb side. locking box up front for a jack, and chains/straps

^^^^^^^^
And use "jacketed" extention cords for wiring lights.

[PSD Ryan]

Stake pocket side rails so you can remove them if needed, run them when ya do.

[Oilfield_diver]

Cool post. Hope there will be some pics.

[Skullworks52]

Okay some clarification, My ag department want's a utility trailer with a gooseneck (better for towing). We have decided for removable ramps. I think square tubing top would be better( easier to weld/fabricate and it's easier to work with on a load). I think adding a jack at the end of each side of the trailer will help when loading equipment. I also want to have conduit for the wiring. Protected lights as well as work lights. Tie downs, stronger fenders, etc.

[Skullworks52]

also a toolbox!

[sniper steve]

Recessed tie down points on the deck. Can never have too many.

[Draco]

Don't make it 18', go with 20'. No reason to cut 2' off of 20' sticks when a 20' will tow just as easy as an 18'er. Build in steps in front of and behind the fenders. Under deck storage for the ramps. Under or over tongue storage for the spare, lockable. Reciever hitch in back of tongue for winch like was already said.

[BIGTERRY75]

20 ft will be short as soon as u start using it. Make it as wide as ur axles will allow. As stated plenty of places to tie down, strap down, chain down, etc. ramps that slide in the rear are way better than on the side.
Storage and plenty of it.
Two spare minimum.
Lots of lights (led) only and Well worth the money.
Any body mention brakes? Both axles.
Be surprised how many trailers don't have functional brakes.
Steps and handles for people using trailer.
Don't like wire in conduit. It's a good idea, but Troubleshooting gets difficult when you cannot access wiring.
Extension cords I use only have 3 wires. Unless you're gonna use two and guess which black is what?
You need five wires minimal on this deal.
Left
Right
Lights
Brakes
Ground
Auxiliary
That last one can sure come in handy.
Battery
Oh blinkers half way back on the sides help sometimes.
Air compressor? Or at-least an air tank.
Use PVC to run air from front to back.
Air bags for springs is the new hot lick. Easier loading and theft deterrent.

Oh grease zerks on everything.
I got more if u want.

[Skullworks52]

20 ft will be short as soon as u start using it. Make it as wide as ur axles will allow. As stated plenty of places to tie down, strap down, chain down, etc. ramps that slide in the rear are way better than on the side.
Storage and plenty of it.
Two spare minimum.
Lots of lights (led) only and Well worth the money.
Any body mention brakes? Both axles.
Be surprised how many trailers don't have functional brakes.
Steps and handles for people using trailer.
Don't like wire in conduit. It's a good idea, but Troubleshooting gets difficult when you cannot access wiring.
Extension cords I use only have 3 wires. Unless you're gonna use two and guess which black is what?
You need five wires minimal on this deal.
Left
Right
Lights
Brakes
Ground
Auxiliary
That last one can sure come in handy.
Battery
Oh blinkers half way back on the sides help sometimes.
Air compressor? Or at-least an air tank.
Use PVC to run air from front to back.
Air bags for springs is the new hot lick. Easier loading and theft deterrent.

Oh grease zerks on everything.
I got more if u want.

Shoot keep it comin!

[Gummi Bear]

Mid height deckover trailer. Easy to get 102", and low or no showing fenders.

Use Timbren trailer axles, rather than traditional straight axles. (I do not approve of leaf springs)

Bulldog hitch

Bulldog tandem jack (I like a really stable trailer)

Flipdown jacks at rear corners to assist with loading (I also like to use my trailer as a deck when camping, so the ability to level it is a handy feature)

The wiring that people are trying to describe is tray cable. Some trailer shops offer it with the "universal" trailer wiring colors in it.

add backup lights to the rear of the trailer

add a circuit for loading lights.

all lighting to be LED

Build a box frame, rather than a channel frame, run all wiring in the box frame (this means you have to be meticulous about dressing even the inside of every joint to keep from abrading the wires.)

You need to consider what you are using the trailer for when choosing how heavy to build it. If you are just going to haul quads and stuff, a single axle will do. If you plan to load up a big tractor, or a couple of cars, I'd look at a pair of 5k axles.

No matter what you do, invest in proper trailer tires. I like trailer radials (load range D, minimum for me), and I always get them balanced. Some will call that silly, but a balanced tire rolls much more smoothly than an unbalanced one, no matter where it is mounted...