here is another video of it running in some really shallow stuff about 12'' in the beginning then when i get into the turn its around 4'' of water and some medium soft mud.
took it back in some really swampy areas too and up a small creek with logs and winding parts it did really well. i now have to install the kill switch the one i had wasnt the correct one. I aslo have to fix a small hole in the bottom of the boat that the epoxy didnt hold up and i also will fabricate a removable grab bar.
got the new kill switch in and working. need to also put a small grove in the shaft where the ujoint set screws go into to keep it from walking up the ujoint.
If your hull is of a standard thickness, then it's skin is most likely .065" or less for 14' and less. .065" is about = to 1/16" and is used on some boats up to 17'. If your gonna use a spool gun, you will need to move very very quick to keep from blowing through. Straight argon or a mix of helium would be best for gas coverage. Tig welding it would be the best bet yet as the heat can be controlled. I used to work for a company that did Structural Warranty Repair for the 5 state region, for a major marine company. Also serviced a lot of other major brands and mfgs. If you were up my way, I'd sure enough give you a hand in get-n it done. Got a tig machine in the garage .
I currently sit at a small aluminum work table all day welding parts for helicopters. Aluminum as thin as .020" and stainless as thin as .016" with no melt or burn through allowed.
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