Epoxy countertops

[Allpublic]

Decided to post this in case anyone else has been considering doing it. Post may get long, but just trying to be as informative as i can for someone trying it for the first time like i did. You can make some really cool looks, but im not sure if i would do it again. I used the stone coat countertops epoxy, and its not exactly cheap, at $120 a gallon, although much cheaper than most countertop material. There are much cheaper epoxies out there, but its hard to find much information on them. Stonecoat advertises that theirs is heat and uv resistant so that is what i went for. I did 2 bathrooms, kitchen island and countertops, wich totaled about 70sq'. With the epoxy and other needed supplies, i would say i spent about $600, so around $8.60 per sq'. It could be done cheaper by doing a more solid look like marble, but i chose to do what they call an exotic pour. It uses probably double the amount of epoxy to pour. They sale a bonding primer and a black or white top coat. I bought it, but it was really thin didnt cover well and peeled when i pulled the tape on edges. When i got to the kitchen i switched to rustoleum spraycan bonding primer. I applied this to 3/4 bc plywood. On their videos they make a rough stone looking edge with bondo i believe, but i never watched that part because i didnt really like it. Instead i routered some 1x strips with a round over bit and used that. For the exotic pour you have to make a tape dam around the edges then let the epoxy gel up then pull the tape and let it slowly run over the edge. Timing this right is tricky because too soon and your epoxy and design runs off, too late and it doesn't want to flow off, you have to help it with your finger, it gets tacky and doesn't want to do right. I can see now why they make their edges rough on the videos. Also the color of your top coat makes a huge difference as even the colored epoxy remains somewhat see thru, and especially on the edges, as the colors seem to run out of the epoxy or something because they will mostly be clear. For this reason i say dont use their top coat, just buy a rustoleum color you like and use that. Light or dark colors will drastically change the final look. I found i had plenty of time to use the product but get yourself organized before you start because it is messy and the stickiest stuff you will ever touch. You will constantly be shedding gloves so have a whole box, you will need them. Lots of tape and plastic drop clothes if doing this inside. It would be much easier to do this on a table or saw horses before tops are installed, not only to control the mess but because the epoxy will only flow out so much and it is hard to make it move to where you need it, being able to tilt the top would have made this alot easier. This wasn't an option for me so i did them in place, and had to use a floor fan on high to push the epoxy to where it was needed. This will distort the design but makes a cool look. The bulky fan was not easy to hold and move around. In retrospect i should have left the fan on the floor and necked it down with a shop vac hose or similar, this probably would have made it easier. Also putting the un-mixed epoxy in front of the heater and heating it up made it mix and flow easier, didnt se used a heat gun to thin and disperse any spots i didnt like and for air bubbles. A propane torch may have worked better but the heat gun worked fine. Another tip, dont use glitter. I did on some not on others. Even though the glitter is fine it still seemed to show as specs in the epoxy that almost look like air bubbles ɓut are not. The metalic powders they sell have plenty of sparkle and the glitter is not necessary. So that is my experience with it, not incredibly hard but incredibly stressful for me. Unpredictable looks without some experience. Spent a little more and get enough to make yourself a few sample boards. I promise it is worth it if you are going to try it. I know this was long but i hope it helps someone.

[Texas_Gwala]

looks good

[Smokeater]

Dang sure does! Looks awesome and kudos for having the gumption to take on a project like that. Good job!

[Allpublic]

Thanks guys

[goldtip5575]

Those look amazing. Great job.

[Snowflake Killa]

They turned out awesome

[lhamilton19]

Yeah you did great.

[bboswell]

those turned out great!

[Aggies96]

I made a couple of vanity countertops with MDF (using 2 layers of 3/4") and did Stone Coats marble coloring. They turned out great. Super easy, no harsh smells, and plenty of working time to get the look you want. I will advise against their Ultimate Top coat which is a super hard topping layer to add even more protection. They sell in it a gloss or matte finish. I wanted a matte finish so went that direction. First time I got some serious orange peel so sanded it down and tried again (you add water to cut it so added more water). Still got some orange peal so sanded that down as well. Looks pretty good as I finished it off with some like 5000 wet sanding. I've got the matte look now I wanted. You can put this stuff over anything - mdf, plywood, formica counter tops, concrete, etc... They've got a ton of videos we well to assist to get the look you want. I have concrete countertops with a natural finish that I'm about to coat next. Totally optimistic it'll turn out grea as well. They do offer another top coat that is evidently easier to apply. It only comes in gloss so if you want the matte finish you'll need to do a little wet sanding when you're done. I do recommend a top from what I've read - protects the original epoxy coating. You can apply it within 24 hours of applying the original epoxy or do it later but you'll have to sand it at that point to get a good bond.