Reflex\deflex Longbow Build

[TxNurse]

I am in the process of building a reflex\deflex trilam double ipe longbow with bamboo backing. I have been taking pictures, and will try to post and describe the process as go along if there is any interest in watching a rank amateur do this. I have only built about 7 or 8 bows, but have been pretty successful with most of them. I can do it with lots of detail, some detail, high points only or not at all--depending on the interest level.

[Ron]

I am very interested.

[flywise]

I'm interested whether it has a lot of detail or just a little. I hope to build my own one day and following along with a build will surly help.

[TexaRican]

I'll subscribe for sure!

[TxNurse]

Looks like interest level is at least as high as my skill level, so let's do it! It may take me a while. I do better with tools and wood than with computers. First let me tell you what I am doing generally, then I will get to details and pictures. I am building a reflex/deflex longbow 64" nock to nock,and 67" overall. I will show later why the tips are a little longer than 1". The bow is to be 1 1/8" wide, and thick enough to get the right draw weight. It is a double ipe because I am laminating two pieces of ipe for the belly then a bamboo back. I got the board and bamboo as a kit from a nice seller on e-Bay, and he was very generous with the materials. If I remember, I will look up his e-Bay name and post it later.

[PondPopper]

Most definitely. I'm watching this one.

[gatorgar]

Might start my second one next month. Post away, will work as a refresher for me! Thanks.

[dmaxshawn]

lets get this ball rolling. I want to see this one for sure.

[TxNurse]

Sorry, I had to resize all of my pics to make them work. I already ripped my board and bamboo to size before I started taking pictures. The thinner board is about 1 1/8 x 3/16 x 70, and the thicker one is about 5/16 thick. The bamboo was also ripped 1 1/8" wide. I usually make the bow width about 1 1/4, but ipe is so dense, it will do well at 1 1/8. After everthing is ripped, I use the stationary belt sander to sand out the saw marks.







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One reason I am doing the two laminations of ipe can be seen in the picture showing the knots. Having the two laminations will prevent haveinh the knot going all the way through. Should help prevent a blowup at the knot. The smaller boards will be the riser and tip laminations. The accent pieces are leopardwood.

[TxNurse]

Flattening the bamboo is the most time consuming part of the build for me. The whole piece has to be ground down to less than 1/8 inch between the nodes of the bamboo. Do not try to grind the nodes as thin as the rest. The area around the nodes is weaker than the straight area between the nodes. Also, do not grind off the tops of the nodes on the back of the bow. They not only look cool, but for the same reason, it will cause a weak area in the back if you grind them off.













I taper the whole piece from about 1/8 inch at the center to about 1/16 at the tips. That way, you do not end up with too thin belly at the tips and lose your reflex. You can see how thin the tip is in the close-up. You can see where I balanced the nodes at the tips by cutting the 3 inces off one end. This one worked out perfect for me because the end nodes will be hidden in the tip overlays when the bow is finished. I tried to show the taper by clamping the bamboo on the ipe. As I am going through this, I am sure to forget something, so do not hesitate to ask if something is not clear.

[TxNurse]

Dry Run

I usually taper the ends of a bow on the band saw, but since this one is a little narrower, and because it is a trilam, I will glue it up then use the belt sander to taper the sides and belly before I tiller the bow. I always do a dry run to see how I want to clamp it when I glue it. Deciding how it is going to bend after putting glue on it is asking for trouble. As you see, I do not use a form, but use the natural curves created by the clamps bending the wood. I have seen it done both ways on the internet. Don't guess there is a right and wrong way. One advantage of the trilam is that it is easier to bend than one with a solid belly piece. Usually with a one piece belly, you need to side taper and sometimes even taper the belly before it will bend well.









This will be the first time to try out my hot box. Just particle board, an $11 piece of polyurethane siding insulation, two ceramic fixtures, hinges, cord, a smoker temp guage and screws.

[TxNurse]

Glue-up

I roughed up the gluing surfaces with a hacksaw blade, and then rubbed the ipe, which is an oily wood, with lacquer thinner to make the glue bond better. I am using West Systems G-Flex epoxy, which was developed as a flexible marine epoxy made to bond difficult woods such as ipe. I weigh my epoxy instead of trying to measure it. The glue is applied to all surfaces to be bonded, then the whole thing is wrapped in cling wrap. The clamps are applied--you cannot use too many clamps, but you do not want to calmp so tight that you force all the glue out of the joint. I measure everything to make sure both ends are the same, then the whole thing goes in the hot box. And speaking of hot boxes, the bow is about ready to come out now. Tomorrow is supposed to be nice, so maybe I will get some more done on the bow and do another post

















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[bulletpusher]

I wished I lived in San Angelo. I would love to watch this in person.

[BigErn]

Looking good!
Got some questions on bamboo to ask you and about your form.I like
these build alongs!
Ernie

[Ron Meloni]

Very cool, subscribed.