just got my 1 1/2" and 1 3/4" nestable tubing in from McMaster Carr... have a acme bolt, handle, and collars....need a acme nut, 1/2" flang bearing and im set...will keep this going till im finished...
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following this -
I built my press about 7-8 months before gunner, the original thread where I got my info came from Elite Archery. Here's my press from EANole's original post way back when - you can probably tell I'm a Michgan season ticket holder . . .Comment
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Have you gotten your press arms yet.Comment
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we have a wire EDM where i work so ill have them cut there...Originally posted by cjkozik View PostComment
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ive looked at yours while reading every post on the AT site... and i have the ELITE page bookmarked... so are you maybe a michigan fan? i have a Xpress i built a year ago using plans off th AT site also..it works very good but i like the way the ez press works. going to make it where it will pivot vertical and add a draw board to it.Originally posted by tpcollins View PostComment
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Since the original pictures, I have added draw board attachments. The "finger assemblies" slide off the tubes and another set with a heavy duty eye bolt and rod slide into place. My bow hasn't gotten out of tune so I haven't use it much for either application - but it looks cool sitting on my bench.Comment
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got all the tubing cut today and the acme nut welded in. i took a pic of the nut but dropped my phone on the concrete and killed it. when you weld the nut in, it is very important to get it as centered as possible so that the screw will not bind when you are pressing.
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flange bearing mount and the flange bearing. drilled 1 1/2" hole in center and drilled and tapped 5/16" for the mountin holes. next will be lining the mount up on the 1 1/2" tubing and tacking it in place.
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flange bearing, acme thread, and main internal body piece with nut in it. i turned the acme rod down to .75" to fit in the handle.
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there was no need for the collar or any bushings because of the flange bearing, and since there are set screws.
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after fitting the bearing and all together i noticed that when it is all the way retracted that the acme rod binds inside the 1.5" tubing. so tomorrow im going to cut the nut off and realign with the bearing. probably should have done this first.Originally posted by CRTR_GTR View PostComment
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besides the binding in the fully retract postion it runs very, very smoothly. i could leave it the way it is but im very OCD about the things i build and how they work. in the fully retract position it is 22" so i know i would never press anything down to that size.Comment
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ok..cut off the acme nut and realigned. also added a piece of 1" emt to the inside of the 1.5" tubing. i did this because the acme thread im using is 1" and it tends to hit the inside of the tubing. got the first arm attached to the moving piece. attaching the other arm now.
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got the other arm attached without much difficulty. taking a break and then im goin to figure out the legs. want to make them to where the main body rotates.
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welded on a piece of 1' schedule 80 pipe in the center of main body.
thas about it on the main body. need to paint and then grease acme thread.Comment
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