I'm not a welder......

[CletusBodeen]

But I've been working my own version of a redneck harrow

[CletusBodeen]

After the tongue and wheels

[freak-nasty]

Looks good!

[CletusBodeen]

I cut the angle iron to make a point.

I'll finish it tomorrow when I get the cross braces welded up which will also serve as a perch for extra weight.

[Tubby]

Looks good. Wire weld?

[CletusBodeen]

Looks good. Wire weld?

Shoot no! I had a wire welder and kept burning up tips so I sold it to a fellow tbh'er. Went a got a new stick welder and this is my first project with it.

[Tubby]

Shoot no! I had a wire welder and kept burning up tips so I sold it to a fellow tbh'er. Went a got a new stick welder and this is my first project with it.

Ok, if you can get some 3/32 7018 rods (lo-hydrogen) and make another pass over each weld it'll help out with the movement/vibration stress that the welds will endure.

[Skinny]

Hey now!!! I like that!!!

[CletusBodeen]

Ok, if you can get some 3/32 7018 rods (lo-hydrogen) and make another pass over each weld it'll help out with the movement/vibration stress that the welds will endure.

Thanks for the info. I welded each joint twice. Welded it let it cool and did a weave style weld over the first weld hoping to make for a better weld.

[calls]

Shoot no! I had a wire welder and kept burning up tips so I sold it to a fellow tbh'er. Went a got a new stick welder and this is my first project with it.

That wire welder you sold to a fellow TBH'er works GREAT Cletus

You harrow looks good.

[CletusBodeen]

That wire welder you sold to a fellow TBH'er works GREAT Cletus

You harrow looks good.

I'm sure glad it works for you because I couldn't figure it out.

Thanks for the compliment, too.

[Tubby]

Thanks for the info. I welded each joint twice. Welded it let it cool and did a weave style weld over the first weld hoping to make for a better weld.

Letting it cool actually hurts it more than it helps. Keeping weld temperature high helps the fusion from the weld into the heat effected zone. Obviously if it's still red hot, it does need to cool some before the next pass


One more pass with a lo-hy couldn't hurt. The thing about a lo-hy is you CAN'T rush it! Let it do the work and don't try to whip the rod too much. It will have a different surface slag that you need to chip off with the point of a file or a chipping hammer if you have one before it's buffed clean. It does make a very slick looking weld (if it's done correctly). And the 7018 is designed to run up-hill. It can be used in the flat position with no problems.

I'm guessing you used a 6011 for this. This is a great all around "junk iron" rod, runs excellent out of a cracker-box.

The thing to remember with welding rods is the first two numbers designate the tensile strength of the weld. 60XX = 60,000#, 70XX = 70,000#, 80XX = 80,000#. The third number designates the position and the fourth is special note (usually the chemical components in the flux). The XX1X designates an all position rod BUT the 4th number ***8 designates special note to be run uphill for a 7018.

I know this is way more info than you ever wanted to know but is useful at times

[Tbar]

LOL..........join the redneck club.




Tbar

[CletusBodeen]

LOL..........join the redneck club.




Tbar

I bet you don't have to add weight to that one. Looking good.

[BigErn]

Looks good Clint,
I'm a redneck welder too,FFA certified!
Ernie