But I've been working my own version of a redneck harrow
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I'm not a welder......
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Originally posted by CletusBodeen View PostShoot no! I had a wire welder and kept burning up tips so I sold it to a fellow tbh'er. Went a got a new stick welder and this is my first project with it.
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Originally posted by Tubby View PostOk, if you can get some 3/32 7018 rods (lo-hydrogen) and make another pass over each weld it'll help out with the movement/vibration stress that the welds will endure.
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Originally posted by CletusBodeen View PostThanks for the info. I welded each joint twice. Welded it let it cool and did a weave style weld over the first weld hoping to make for a better weld.
One more pass with a lo-hy couldn't hurt. The thing about a lo-hy is you CAN'T rush it! Let it do the work and don't try to whip the rod too much. It will have a different surface slag that you need to chip off with the point of a file or a chipping hammer if you have one before it's buffed clean. It does make a very slick looking weld (if it's done correctly). And the 7018 is designed to run up-hill. It can be used in the flat position with no problems.
I'm guessing you used a 6011 for this. This is a great all around "junk iron" rod, runs excellent out of a cracker-box.
The thing to remember with welding rods is the first two numbers designate the tensile strength of the weld. 60XX = 60,000#, 70XX = 70,000#, 80XX = 80,000#. The third number designates the position and the fourth is special note (usually the chemical components in the flux). The XX1X designates an all position rod BUT the 4th number ***8 designates special note to be run uphill for a 7018.
I know this is way more info than you ever wanted to know but is useful at timesLast edited by Tubby; 08-24-2010, 09:49 PM.
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