Bow site help!

[TexasOkie]

I just got a new parker bow and had it setup at the bow shop to fit me. The pins were setup for me at 15, 25, 35. at 20yards using the first pin i can touch most of my arrows, shooting very tight right on. when i back up to 25 and drop down to my next pin, i shoot to the left about 3 to 4 inches....why is this? i tried making sure i was anchoring the same put the first pin on the target and then moved the second pin over the target and still the same results. shot to the left. I have always used a single pin site and adjusted the yardage, this is a first for using fixed muti pin site. everyone says that is the way to go, that way you just draw and shoot whatever the pin yard you need. I can even shoot from 25 using my first pin and just aim a lil higher and I am right on. Also....if i can get this figured out i want to add another pin, should i add a 45 or change my pins to be 20, 30, 40, 50???? what does everyone think. another side note.....With my old browning bow and a single pin i can shoot just fine out to 40 or so, just lost on what im doing wrong!?!?!?! if you want more info, its a parker hunter-mag 28draw, 58# shooting carbon goldtips with 100g

thanks...

[Jon-Paul]

Could be the center shot is not set correctly

[TexasOkie]

Could be the center shot is not set correctly

what does that mean?

[Jon-Paul]

Centershot is the alignment of the arrow in the power path of the string. This is accomplished by moving the arrow rest left or right. Release shooters should line the arrow up with or just slightly outside of the power path of the string.

Dont hold me to it Im not a bow tech, but I would think this or the arrow spine is too weak.

[TexasOkie]

ttt

[MA ELite]

Centershot is the alignment of the arrow in the power path of the string. This is accomplished by moving the arrow rest left or right. Release shooters should line the arrow up with or just slightly outside of the power path of the string.

Dont hold me to it Im not a bow tech, but I would think this or the arrow spine is too weak.

I agree. I would take it back to the shop and have them double check it. You can check your arrow spline on the net. What ever arrows you are shooting they should have a chart on their web site that tells you what spline arrow you should be shooting.

[TexasOkie]

thanks, I will go have it checked out, but I am almost sure i have the right arrows and rest should be center. I can use the first pin and hold high and hit dead on at 25 yards i just cant drop down to the second pin and do it. could i be looking through my peep wrong???could i be lining up godd for the first pin and not for the second one? when i see the first pin i see a little bit of the ring around the site when on the second one i dont see it!?!?!?!?!

[Rsatt]

Are you shooting 3555s or 5575s Goldtips? Spined wrong does funny things sometimes. Another possibility is are torqueing the bow at longer distances? i.e...gripping the bow tighter, trying to make a good shot.... But as said before, the setup may not be right.

Good Luck

[IowaHunter]

Any movement or variation to your address and release will show up quickly at longer distances - even if we feel that were grounded on the shots. But I agree with the centershot comments.

[TexasOkie]

checked my arrows again and they are good! goldtip expeditions hunter 29" 5575 - 400 bow is 28 draw@58# they are the right arrows.

[Jon-Paul]

Its probably the centershot. You can do a walk back tuning to help resolve this issue.

http://www.redhawk-archery.com/walkback.html

[TexasOkie]

Its probably the centershot. You can do a walk back tuning to help resolve this issue.

http://www.redhawk-archery.com/walkback.html

good info thanks!

[Lost Buckaroo]

I would place a verticle line on my target use a piece of tape then back up to 30 yards and set your windage. any mistakes will show up as you stretch your distances I would be willing to bet if you're bow is tuned correctly and you set your windage at 30 yds you will still be dead nuts at 20 and looking good at 40. at 30 yds you would only have to torque your bow a 1/4 inch to throw you off 3 or 4. good luck

[Lost Buckaroo]

This may help you when you get ready to shoot your broadheads.I had some info on broadhead tuning but the stuff was making it more difficult than it really is. BASICALLY WHAT YOU ARE DEALING WITH IS THE BROADHEAD HAS THE ABILITY TO LEAD THE ARROW DUE TO THE BLADES ACTING AS WINGS. SINCE A FIELD POINT HAS NO BLADES, IT IS ABLE TO USE THE FLETCHING TO STABALIZE ITSELF FASTER AND STILL FLY TO THE POINT OF AIM EVEN THOUGH IT MAY NOT BE COMING OFF THE BOW STRAIGHT. WHAT YOU ARE TRYING TO DO IS FIND THE SPOT IN YOUR REST ADJUSTMENT WHERE THE BROADHEAD IS NOT ABLE TO "STEER" ITSELF OFF COURSE AND WE DO THIS BY MOVING THE REST UNTIL IT IS LEAVING THE BOW AS STRAIGHT AS POSSIBLE. WHAT I LIKE TO DO IS SHOOT ONE BROADHEAD AND TWO FILED POINTS AND PREFERABLY DO IT AT 30 YARDS AS THIS WILL MAKE SURE THAT THE DIFFERENCE YOU SEE IS NOT JUST SHOOTER ERROR. IF YOUR BROADHEADS HIT TO THE LEFT OF YOUR FIELD POINTS, THEN YOU NEED TO MOVE YOUR REST TO THE RIGHT ABOUT 1/16 OF AN INCH AND TRY AGAIN. DO THE OPPOSITE IF THEY ARE REVERSED OBVIOUSLY. HAT YOU WILL BEGIN TO SEE IS THAT THE REST MOVEMENT AFFECTS THE BROADHEADS WAY MORE THAN THE FIELD POINTS AND YOU SHOULD EVENTUALLY GET TO THE POINT WHERE THEY HIT THE SAME SPOT. ALL YOU NEED TO DO THEN IS MOVE YOUR SIGHT SO THAT YOU ARE BACK IN THE MIDDLE OF THE BULLSEYE AND YOU ARE SET. KEEP IN MIND THAT THERE ARE MANY PIECES TO THE PUZZLE SUCH AS YOUR GRIP ON THE BOW, ARROW SPINE, ETC THAT YOU CANNOT DIRECTLY SEE OR CHANGE THAT MAY BE AFFECTING WHAT IS GOING ON. TAKE YOUR TIME AND MAKE GOOD SHOTS AND CALL ANY THAT YOU THINK ARE FLYERS. YOU WILL GET THEM PERFECT EVENTUALLY AND YOU WILL HAVE A MUCH BETTER IDEA OF BOW TUNING.

[TexasOkie]

thanks guys! im ready to get off work and go shoot! lol