Towing Trailer Behind Camper w/ Receiver Attachment?

[brunner]

Anyone used an Adaptor Receiver on to the 4” camper bumper for a utility trailer and UTV?

Versus a whole new bolt or welded receiver?

I only need to pull a trailer behind camper 2-3 times a year versus bringing to two vehcile on vacation.

Towing only 60-90 miles.

Thoughts?

Set up is F250 with 28’ camper and 12’ tandem axle utility trailer with Mule ProFXT.

I’m pretty sure I know the answer but just wanted to verify.





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[gonehuntin]

My buddy lost his golf cart and trailer with that hitch behind his travel trailer. Never found it either.

[BETTERLUCKYTHANGOOD]

I triple tow all the time with my camper and boat. I would worry more about the camper bumper and how it is attached to the camper. I made my own bumper and attached it to the frame of the camper, not sure I would trust the factory light metal bumper, you would be amazed how much stress a trailer will put on that light metal bumper. Also you will need to make sure you don't take to much tongue weight off your trailer/truck or you will be in for a wild ride.

[bowhunterhelm]

I tow this several times a year using the bracket you mentioned. No issues, my bumber on the camper is welded though, check that before you tow. The bracket isn’t an issue.


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[texanhoyt]

Same I had by bumper of my camper beefed up at a welding shop. IMO The stock bumper was two light even for a 10 ft single axle with a golf cart

[bboswell]

I triple towed my Ranger behind our 31' bumper pull a lot but not off the factory TT bumper!

Make receiver that bolts to the frame on both sides.

[DaveC]

I had one of those welded onto an after factory bumper on my last trailer for doing double tows.

Check your factory bumper- most are strong enough to hold the sewage hose and not much else.

When trailer shopping last year I saw several brands that had stickers on their bumpers stating they weren't rated for anything extra to be added (spare tires and bike racks are common & not recommended on those mentioned).

Our latest trailer has a factory 2" hitch, but only a 250# rating & no where to hang chains- they evidently intend it for a bike rack or hitch rack.

FYI, when you get there- as far as trailer wires- I just ran an extra set of trailer wires under the trailer and plugged into the 4 wire harness on the truck bumper- which will work unless you want your ute trailer brakes to work- that might be a whole nuther pickle.
Tapping into the taillights and making it all work was beyond my care to figure it out.

[hot_rod_eddie]

If that Ford can pull it I am sure it isn't that heavy. Go ahead forward.


Sorry, I couldn't help it....

[twosixteens]

I bet it will work just fine but i believe you will be over legal length

[brunner]

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[DaveC]

The thinness / thickness of that metal once you pop that cap will probably be the deciding factor.

I like how the main frame is exposed, if the current square tubing is too thin replacing it with thicker steel looks easily done- once you cut that one off.

But who knows, maybe it's thick enough already?

Be interesting to read replies from those doing this with factory bumpers.

[DaveC]

A quick tell might be bouncing up and down on that spare tire mount.
If the square tubing flexes I'd highly consider replacing.

[captainsling]

I wouldn’t unless you beef up the structure of that bumper or replace it.

[bboswell]

I only see a small weld at the top, is the tube welded to the frame down the side of the gram also?

[Dale Moser]

That would be really easy to put a heavy piece of steel in between the frame rails, behind the factory bumper, and tie it all together.

I'm about to do this with my trialer, and I wish the factory setup was like yours.