Game cam/circuit board/computer question

[Brute Killer]

Is this thing a CMOS battery?

[eholguin13]

Looks like it. Likely low voltage rechargeable. Dab of glue to hold it on the board.

[RifleBowPistol]

Yes, it's a battery, you will have to cut it off or un solder it. Actually that one may be glued. I used some tuning chips, the older versions used to have that same battery holder, the batteries were soldered in place. The newer versions of those chips, have a different battery holder that is easy to replace the battery.

[Kevin]

I would vote yes. Certainly a battery. Could be for RTC to keep from having to reset everything when you pull the batteries out.

[Kevin]

Yes, it's a battery, you will have to cut it off or un solder it. Actually that one may be glued. I used some tuning chips, the older versions used to have that same battery holder, the batteries were soldered in place. The newer versions of those chips, have a different battery holder that is easy to replace the battery.

You can buy them in whatever package you want. Usually these tack welded and soldered batteries are cheaper.

[Brute Killer]

My Browning cam quit working. A youtube.com vid said the CMOS batt was bad looking to replace it.

[RifleBowPistol]

I know the chips I use, don't work at all, if that battery is dead. The chip gets power from the computer it's plugged into, even with power from the computer, if that battery is dead, the chip does not work. So I can see a camera not working, if that battery is dead.

[Kevin]

I can find an equivalent part if you can pull voltage or part number off the existing batt. I can make an educated guess if needed, but better to know.

[Brute Killer]

I'm not sure I can get it out without tearing something up.
I removed the spot of red glue, but I believe it has a soldered connection, also.
It looks like the strip is spot welded on top of the battery and then that strip it soldered onto the board.

[Brute Killer]

The battery is only about a ¼" in diameter.

[Brute Killer]

This is the bottom side.
I don't see any marking and I don't have a Fluke to test volts.
My meter only does 120/240 ac.

[Brute Killer]

Does the "C57" mean anything to you?

[bowtechhunter]

Does the "C57" mean anything to you?
[ATTACH]1116186[/ATTACH]

That is a 3volt battery I had a lot of extra 2035 battery's. I soldered some tiny copper wires to the 2035 then soldered them to the board( positive on the right in your picture) Taped it real good and silicone to board.

[RifleBowPistol]

That's not the same part number batteries that I have dealt with on computer boards, same type of deal. You might get on the internet and search up 3V 2035 computer board batteries and see what pops up. If you ordered two or three, you could just solder one back on the board. You might also try bowtechhunter's idea of soldering a wire to each side of the battery. I would use a good soldering iron and be quick about soldering each wire, to the battery. I am not sure how much heat it would take to get one of those batteries to blow up, or get damaged. I am going to guess that's why they weld those contacts on, each spot weld would be almost instant. If you tried to heat the battery case up with a small torch, it probably would not go well.

[Brute Killer]

You might also try bowtechhunter's idea of soldering a wire to each side of the battery. I would use a good soldering iron and be quick about soldering each wire, to the battery. I am not sure how much heat it would take to get one of those batteries to blow up, or get damaged. I am going to guess that's why they weld those contacts on, each spot weld would be almost instant. If you tried to heat the battery case up with a small torch, it probably would not go well.

Saw a vid of that very thing. The battery blew up (popcorn) pretty quickly. The guy's solution was metalic tape, electrical tape, and heat shrink.