Utility trailer maintenance question

[jerp]

I have a 5x10 utility trailer I bought 20 years ago. It does not get used much, it has mostly sat out in the weather and I have only repacked the bearings a couple of times. I'm thinking they are just about dry of grease and have been for a while. I'm fixin' to take it on a longish trip over Christmas so I need to get it road-worthy. My question - how do you know when you need to not just replace/repack the bearings but replace the entire hub? If they are damaged and need to be replaced, how do I know what hub to buy and where would you buy them?

[coker737]

Pull them look for irregularities and if they look good repack and run them.

Tires would be another question you need to think about.

[WyoBull]

The first thing I would do is pull the outer hub cover and inspect the bearing. Probably a good time to repack them since it has been so long.
I would definitely put on a set of bearing buddies so you can grease the periodically and quickly.
Tires are a big issue with trailers that sit. Check for tire rot, cracking etc.
Check the lights and coupler and that is really all you need to do.

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[RattlesnakeDan]

Grease gets old and hard. I have done repairs on cattle trailers that sit in the sun on one side, the grease was dried out and hard and the other side was still good.
Just grease them and even if you need someone else to do it, check/replace seals etc... good piece of mind.

[bboswell]

Utility trailer maintenance question

No reason to ever replace a hub unless a bearing fails going down the road allowing the spindle and hub to contact.

Pull the hub
Remove grease seal.
Clean everything with gas.
Roll bearing with fingers to check for smooth operation.
Pack bearing with new grease
Replace bearings and press in new seal.
Re-install.
Done

[wytex]

We lost an entire wheel assembly; hub, wheel and tire while going down I-70 outside of Denver on our 5x10 trailer a few years back.
It can happen, look over all of it , not just the bearings. The hub failed at the axle.
Made quite the spark show and we never found the assembly, thankfully no accident either.

[Pushbutton2]

Just a friendly note:

Keep track of which bearings came from the in board and outboard side on each hub and put them back in the same spot.

If you should need to replace the bearing replace the Race as well.

[canny]

Get you 2 spares...I have been meaning to get another for my 6x12. My theory is both tires are the same age so if one blows, then there is always a chance the other could follow in a reasonable amount of time. I'd feel better taking a long trip with a SA trailer if I have a full set of spares.

[Big Lee]

As long as the bearings and races are not pitted repack and move along. Install new grease seals when you remove them. Any auto parts store will have them. Take the seal and they will cross the part number. If the bearing or race is pitted knock the race out take the bearing and race to any auto parts store they can cross the part number on them as well.

Also, Tractor supply sells new bearing, seals as well as Academy sports over in the boat section.

No need to replace the whole hub. All parts are serviceable. And Cheap

[panhandlehunter]

I never repack, I just replace. New bearings and seals are like $20 at Napa. But I use my trailers every weekend during deer season. I usually replace bearings once a year on both my trailers. Tractor Supply sells the kit but it’s literally twice the price than Napa.

[Shane]

Also check the tires. If they're old and been sitting out in the sun for a few years, they can get cracked. Check all the lights to make sure everything works (tail lights, brake lights, blinkers). Rats might have chewed some wires.

And are the tags current?

[cactusassjohn]

Get you 2 spares...I have been meaning to get another for my 6x12. My theory is both tires are the same age so if one blows, then there is always a chance the other could follow in a reasonable amount of time. I'd feel better taking a long trip with a SA trailer if I have a full set of spares.

good advice here,always have 2 spares on all my trailers

[jerp]

Thanks for all the advice fellas. I recently rewired it, swapped the old bulb lights with LEDs, updated the tags and inspected the tires. I guess next step is to pull the bearings and seals and head to the auto parts store. I may be back with more questions

[Dale Moser]

No reason to ever replace a hub unless a bearing fails going down the road allowing the spindle and hub to contact.

Pull the hub
Remove grease seal.
Clean everything with gas.
Roll bearing with fingers to check for smooth operation.
Pack bearing with new grease
Replace bearings and press in new seal.
Re-install.
Done

All you need to know is right there.

I've found when bearings go bad, they come apart quickly, and terminally. I have replaced a few due to water intrusion, but mostly just re-pack, and TENSION PROPERLY.

[SaltwaterSlick]

John, I have not repacked/replaced a bearing on a utility or boat trailer in probably 25-30 years... All my small trailers have Bearing buddy's. When used/maintained properly, they are the best thing for trailer bearings that has ever been invented.
They were developed for use on boat trailers because in theory (and in actuality) if the bearing housing/hub has a positive pressure on it, water cannot get into the bearings and damage them... If you pump up the bearing buddies with grease until the spring compresses, it will keep a constant push on the grease and keep the bearings greased and dry... The bearing buddy has a "weep hole" in it to prevent you from over pressuring the hub and blowing the seal. It also lets out excess grease as the grease may heat up some while the trailer is being towed. If you just check them once in a while and give 'em a shot of grease to keep the spring in the hub energized, you'll never have a bearing problem on a trailer unless the bearing has some sort of catastrophic failure like a cracked race or something...