Judging wear and tear on used bows

[LOC4L]

I am looking to get a left handed bow for hunting/archery but not necessarily for this season.

The guys over in equipment and tuning suggested a used bow would be a great place to start.

I am wondering what the best ways to determine:
1. A used bows value.
2. what signs of wear and tear that would be a red flag to look for.
3. How far outside of ideal specs draw length/weight specs can one be before you really suffer.

Thanks in advance
Chuck

[HighwayHunter]

I am looking to get a left handed bow for hunting/archery but not necessarily for this season.

The guys over in equipment and tuning suggested a used bow would be a great place to start.

I am wondering what the best ways to determine:
1. A used bows value.
2. what signs of wear and tear that would be a red flag to look for.
3. How far outside of ideal specs draw length/weight specs can one be before you really suffer.

Thanks in advance
Chuck

Original price - $250 every year since production dependent upon visual wear of the bow. I’d say most bows sell for 70% of original price.

Look for cam marks, nicks, dings. I wouldn’t buy a bow with any cracks or chips in the limbs. A small nick on the end corner of a limb could just be wear. Make sure there are photos of that. I wouldn’t advise anyone to shoot a bow more than a half inch too long or too short. With a wrist release you me able to manage for hunting, but you’ll eventually have to correct it.


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[LOC4L]

Seems reasonable, appreciate the advice.

[Smart]

Judging wear and tear on used bows

If it’s not for this year , you have plenty of time to find one that fits you. Fit is important. Fit creates consistency with repetition. Consistency increases your accuracy.

Might as well do it right the first time. There are plenty of used bows for sale on Tbh and archery talk to not have to settle. You can buy bows that do not fit and change out cams/mods to make them fit but then you are talking more money.

[Dale Moser]

I would concentrate on the cams, and string, as far as wear goes, and feel the limbs for any splintering or delamination. Wear on the riser is purely cosmetic. I've always found that most people take better care of their bows than other equipment. I'd stay with models newer than 3-4 years, they have gotten really smooth.

Buy with common sense, and take it to a reputable shop for a once over, and tuning.

[Graysonhogs]

One good thing is used LH bows are generally cheaper than their RH brethren. Great when buying, not so much when selling. All my bows have been used up until this year. Bought a Parker package when they were going out of business. All LH models were $99. Otherwise I'd still go with a used. And will for my next one.

[60 Deluxe]

bows depreciate faster than trailer houses. Do a completed listings search on Ebay using the exact criteria for the bow that you are interested in buying. Expect to see a wide range in values. Armed with that information, you can quickly sort out the overpriced offerings. There will be plenty of nearly new bows listed for a hundred or two less than retail. Ignore them. Check the string for fuzzing, the limbs for any obvious cracks, the general condition of the paint or finish on the riser. Consider if the bow comes with a sight, rest, quiver. Those three things can easily add up to five hundred dollars when you have to buy new. I recently bought a year old like new carbon riser bow that retails for $1700 plus tax for $900 delivered. I did not pay sales tax. If I were to sell it in a year, I might get $600 for it. There are some real bargains to be found in two year old bows. With that in mind, don't buy until you are ready.

[HeyMikey]

Also, check out the make/model you're looking at, to see if the draw length is adjustable without having to change Mods, or press the bow. Mathews aren't; most all Bowtechs & PSE's are.

[apkleinschmidt]

I've bought 7-10 used bows over the years off of forums. I'd say 1 out of 3 has an issue and it's usually strings or cams.

I would specifically ask anyone you're buying from what the string age is and how many shots are on it (ballpark of course). I'd also specifically ask if the cams are dinged or bent in any way (with pics).

A used bow can hit the price of a new bow real fast with repairs.

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[Bigcoyote]

I've bought 7-10 used bows over the years off of forums. I'd say 1 out of 3 has an issue and it's usually strings or cams.

I would specifically ask anyone you're buying from what the string age is and how many shots are on it (ballpark of course). I'd also specifically ask if the cams are dinged or bent in any way (with pics).

A used bow can hit the price of a new bow real fast with repairs.

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How many shots is considerd a lot? I try for 1000 each summer before hunting. How can you tell when the string needs replacing?

[HighwayHunter]

How many shots is considerd a lot? I try for 1000 each summer before hunting. How can you tell when the string needs replacing?

Excessive wear on the servings.


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[apkleinschmidt]

How many shots is considerd a lot? I try for 1000 each summer before hunting. How can you tell when the string needs replacing?

What Highway Hunter said. Wear on serving, fraying, constantly getting out of tune, difficulty getting in spec.

It's hard to say a specific number of shots because I've never had two sets of strings age exactly the same.

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[lovemylegacy]

1. A used bow value is what it can be sold and bought for. Year model should dictate this to some extent along with condition.

2.Start at the limb pockets and work your way to the axle on the limbs. Look for splinters, cracks, delamination and warping. Examine the cam for dents, warping, damage on the string channel that may call fraying. Examine the riser for damage although it usually is fine. Examine the string for fraying and separation. A string is fairly cheap and easily replaced.

3. Unless you are blessed with a long draw length, the bow will not shoot spec. The hunting arrow you shoot will not be the same as the spec arrow used. Don't get to caught up in IBO specs. Concentrate on accuracy and stealth, the bow will be fast enough.

4. A good arrow is important also. Don't go to heavy, don't go to light. A 400gr arrow setup is pretty good for every animal in North America. At that weight you will maintain speed, but will have plenty of KE and momentum to lace your quarry. You will see there are lots of opinions on TBH, you will have your own opinions once you start learning. Learn what is best or what you like and stay with it. The one thing that is of utmost importance is a well tuned, straight flying arrow out of your bow. Enjoy the ride, nothing like it.