Adding A/C condensate pump? Anybody done it?

[mikemorvan]

So, we have a house built in 1965. We've been in it for about 20 years. The plumbing has cast iron drain pipe. About 1.5 years ago we had he main sewer drains sleeved due to the cast iron deteriorating and causing back ups. So far so good with that program. Last weekend the floor drain for the a/c condensate drain backed up. Had a plumber out yesterday to investigate. The plumber couldn't get the snake very far down the pipe. End of the snake came out pretty well shined up from friction. It appears the p-trap on the drain has caved in under the slab. It look like installing a condensate pump may be a viable alternative, at least for the sort term.

So, has any of the TBH Braintrust experienced this? Thoughts? Experience? Etc.? Any insight will be much appreciated.

Side note: If you have a house with a slab on grade, built in early to mid 60's, with cast iron plumbing drains, you may be sitting on a time bomb. Prepare yourself. Repairs can / will be expensive.

Sorry about picture orientation.

[clay4626]

if your ac if fairly close to a outside wall just run some 3/4 pvc to the outside put some fine screen over the end of pipe outside so no bugs can get in
put a tee in it to where you can put in some clorax every once in a while

[Johnny Dangerr]

So, we have a house built in 1965. We've been in it for about 20 years. The plumbing has cast iron drain pipe. About 1.5 years ago we had he main sewer drains sleeved due to the cast iron deteriorating and causing back ups. So far so good with that program. Last weekend the floor drain for the a/c condensate drain backed up. Had a plumber out yesterday to investigate. The plumber couldn't get the snake very far down the pipe. End of the snake came out pretty well shined up from friction. It appears the p-trap on the drain has caved in under the slab. It look like installing a condensate pump may be a viable alternative, at least for the sort term.

So, has any of the TBH Braintrust experienced this? Thoughts? Experience? Etc.? Any insight will be much appreciated.

Side note: If you have a house with a slab on grade, built in early to mid 60's, with cast iron plumbing drains, you may be sitting on a time bomb. Prepare yourself. Repairs can / will be expensive.

Sorry about picture orientation.

This house was built in 1949. We have replaced every pipe under it and in the attic. Had 2 tunnels dug under the house.
Yup it is expensive..................

[Kelmat]

We do it all the time on the commercial side. No problems

[Uncle Saggy]

We do it all the time on the commercial side. No problems

This. Get a good one and you’ll be just fine


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[double bogey]

Looks like you are a bit tight for space though. Find a good place to run the drain to, and run 3/8" od copper. The poly pipe some use is too easy to collapse.
They come with a safety switch in them you can tie into your control wire to shut the ac off if it fills up with water. Little feature to help prevent water damage.

Where does the other line (copper) connect to that goes to this drain? You probably need to address this line also.

[mikemorvan]

Thanks for the input. The unit is squarely in the middle of the house. That's an issue. We're going to have to go up and over to somewhere. Probably the hall bath drain. I like the idea of a copper drain line. Will discuss that with a/c guy.

The copper pipe is the T&P drain from the water heater. That's another concern, but of less immediate concern. I've got to get the wife cooled off. You know, unhappy wife, unhappy life. Will figure out what to do w/ WH once a/c is resolved. Investigating cost of putting hvac system in attic, and putting tankless WH in attic and freeing up the whole mechanical closet space. We shall see...

I'm trying to meet w/ an a/c guy tomorrow. We're going to cut the drain pipe tonight and dump it into a 5 gallon bucket. Hopefully we can at least knock the edge off the heat until we get a solution. Going to have to monitor closely how quickly the bucket fills. Will probably set the a/c at 78 and see what happens.

[hot_rod_eddie]

I have one at my house. Have them multiple applications in commercial. No issues. One at the house has a relay to shut off a/c if it fails.

[iamntxhunter]

You might try pouring a cup of bleach down the line and then see if it will flush out or blow it out with an air compressor and a rag around the opening.

[mikemorvan]

You might try pouring a cup of bleach down the line and then see if it will flush out or blow it out with an air compressor and a rag around the opening.

Would that it were that simple. The trap has deteriorated into a ball of mud.

[mikemorvan]

I have one at my house. Have them multiple applications in commercial. No issues. One at the house has a relay to shut off a/c if it fails.

I'll be discussing this w/ a/c guy tomorrow.

[iamntxhunter]

Yea that is going to be a bit of pain for sure
Hope it goes well for you and it isn't as bad as it seems.

[double bogey]

I have one at my house. Have them multiple applications in commercial. No issues. One at the house has a relay to shut off a/c if it fails.

Actually it is a float switch, and will have to be properly wired into your controls. But your ac guy can easily do this. We usually use the copper tubing as it wont rust or collapse. Lots of folks just run them out to a flower bed, then our only issue is keeping bugs from clogging it up. And you create a nice spot for the mud daubers to get their mud.

Legal connections inside the house are sink drains and washing machine drains. These will need to be installed on the sink side of the trap.

[thegrouse]

I have one in my house. Built in 1952 and AC unit is in the center of the house. I have a condensate pump that pump into a 1/2" copper flex line that is ran into the attic and pump out the side of the house. There is a cutoff switch to shut the unit down if the level gets too high.

[bowhntrmatt]

We use them all the time. Like double bogey said, run 3/8 copper up and through the attic to the outside. Pumps have come a long way in terms of reliability, power, sound level.