Adding Weight or Moving Pins???

[hunter1979]

Hello, I've been trying out a lot of new broadheads trying to get ready for a Texas hunt in about a month.
I've currently got 100 grain, Slick Trick Mags, Grizz Tricks, Magnus Stingers, and G5 Strikers. I noticed that all my 100 grain broadheads shoot about 3" to the right at 20 and 30 yards. I just happened to shoot a 125 grain slick trick and it is dead on at 20 and 30 yards. So here's my question:
Should I switch to 125 grain broadheads and assume that the rest of the different styles of broadheads will be dead on?
Or, should I just move my sight and compensate for the 3" difference?

Thank you for any advice,
Lucas

[Bill]

I'd pick one brand/ wt of broadhead and shoot just that. If all broadheads shoot right, that implies an underspined arrow- or your rest just needs to be tweaked a bit. Going to a heavier broadhead will only made a spine problem worse- so I'm guessing your rest needs a little adjusting.

Here's the guide from the Easton tuning guide. If you tune for one broadhead the others may shoot the same, may not. I'd go with the Magnus, but that's because I shoot their 2 blade vented blades with both my compound and recurve and I'm happy with them. This includes plunger adjustment- which most compounds no longer have, but the rest is good advise.

Trying to tune a bow with it in my hands is enough of a job (for me).

[LUCKY AGAIN]

Sounds like you're on the right track. If you have multiple broadheads consistantly hitting the same spot it does sound like the poundage may bring it all together with your field tip. The rest may also need a slight tweek. I personally don't mix tips weights. Sticking with one broadhead does take a lot of variable out of the mix.

Sometimes i'm too "old school", and it takes a lot of patients, but if you can get a fletched field tip arrow, a fletched broadhead arrow, and an unfletched field tip shaft all grouping within a one inch circle out to 20 yds, generally its about as good as it can be done. Your arrow spine, your bow poundage, your rest and nock setting are totally optimized. Just remember, don't change but one thing at a time. Good luck

[Rsatt]

Good advise from Bill and Lucky. It normally takes a little time to get it right.

Good Luck

[Bullrdr82]

First thing I would do is check to make sure your rest is square with your string. A quick and crude way to do this is by looking at the string with the bow pointed away from you and slightly downward. This would be the same way you look at it right before you pull the string back.

The arrow should run inline with the string. Since you are shooting to the right, I would be willing to say your arrow tip will be to the right of the string at your current setup (between the string and the riser on a right handed bow). If this is the case, the rest needs to be moved to the right to get the tip of the arrow back in line.

I really wish I had a pic to show you.

I had his problem with my girlfirends bow. She was dead on a 10, but when she went to 20 she was 3" to the left. I checked her rest and it needed to be squared back up.

Hope this helps.

[hunter1979]

Thanks I'm going to try a few different things. Come to find out, the slick trick that I thought was a 125 grain (it does look different from my new slick tricks) and was using as a practice head, somehow weighs out at 105 grains...not 125. So, now I'm wondering if adding 5 grains will somehow move my arrow.
If that doesn't work, I'm going to try the broadhead tuning method and try moving my rest 1/32 at a time. I was hesitant to move my rest because it took A LOT of time to paper tune my fieldtips and now that I have it square, I didn't want to move it.

Thanks for the help,
Lucas

[okiedoke]

Sounds like your bow is just a lil out of tune, best thing to do is square every thing up and go from there.

Marc