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Mesquite Coutertop

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    #31
    Beautiful

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      #32
      This one had a lot of worm holes. Some were inlayed but most I filled with Black Epoxy and when I get to the final sand to 600grit it is as smooth or smoother than the wood grain. But yes, this board had less cracking than most, usually as Mesquite dries in a kiln it cracks pretty good with the grain.

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        #33
        Originally posted by Aggiehunter08 View Post
        Looks great. I don’t get why people want to add turquoise or pearl.


        To fill worm holes
        I think it looks better to have epoxy of any color than just filling with poly



        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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          #34
          Very nice, I have two pieces in the house that I plan to finish in this fashion.

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            #35
            Good lookin work!

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              #36
              Excellent work!

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                #37
                Beautiful


                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                  #38
                  Looks amazing. Did you do the resin in one pour?

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                    #39
                    beautiful piece of work!!

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                      #40
                      Gunnyart, no the resin I had to pour in like 5 stages. The black stage filling holes on back, then sand, then black from top and sides, then sand and the top there are actually two thin seal coats to fill woodgrain, sanded and the the last flood coat. But the flood coat is not really a flood just enough too torch to pop any bubbles and so it will self level. Used Epoxy resin for the black stages and the clear coats I decided to use Stone Coat this time. Worked real good but its fickle with temps. Has to be poured between 70-80 degrees and kept in that climate for 3-4 days to properly cure.

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                        #41
                        Fantastic JP!

                        Todd

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                          #42
                          that looks really good. I have an outdoor bar with a large cedar slab for the bar top. I have been thinking of topping it with that type of epoxy resin. How does that work with natural rounded edges?

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                            #43
                            bullhead44. As long as you do a few skim coats to seal, the last cost will just flow over the edge. Also with rubber gloves you can just move the material around. It's fairly easy, if its an outside countertop and there are any voids I strongly suggest looking up glow in the dark pigment. In the voids add the pigment to some resin and poor the voids. Durning the day it just look like a cool white sort of mother of pearl but at night what ever color you chose pops out and is very cool. I did a blue and green on one and it looks like those NASA pics of the galaxy. Anyway, just an idea.

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                              #44
                              I really like it.

                              BP

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                                #45
                                Originally posted by John Paul View Post
                                Gunnyart, no the resin I had to pour in like 5 stages. The black stage filling holes on back, then sand, then black from top and sides, then sand and the top there are actually two thin seal coats to fill woodgrain, sanded and the the last flood coat. But the flood coat is not really a flood just enough too torch to pop any bubbles and so it will self level. Used Epoxy resin for the black stages and the clear coats I decided to use Stone Coat this time. Worked real good but its fickle with temps. Has to be poured between 70-80 degrees and kept in that climate for 3-4 days to properly cure.
                                Thanks for the detailed explanation. You nailed it.

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