Broadheads Tailing Right

[AntlersBoy]

Triax should be around a 13/16" center shot. Make sure your rest is moved to 13/16". Hopefully your rest is just off. If so, this will fix the issue. If it does not, you will check cam timing (just google triax timing holes). If timing is good, then you will have to adjust the top hats on the top cam. You will need a press to adjust everything besides the rest.



Personally, I would not move the rest "out of tune" to get proper flight. You will loose efficiency and performance with the bow. I would get the rest and timing to spec, then adjust with the top hats. You can figure that out by shooting a bareshaft and fletched shaft at 20 yards.

Holy crap,? Let’s make it difficult.? Just check your center shot, if it’s good then put a tweak in yoke. No yoke move your rest. Don’t let these bow nuts get you twisted up. PM me I’ll get to a bullet hole in about 10 mins


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[SETXHUNT0902]

What do you do if the closest you can get your BH and FP together is about 2" vertically? This thread got me curious so yesterday when i got home I slapped on a fixed blade since i havent shot one yet out of my new Vertix and they definitely werent flying with my field points but after some adjustments i got them close. Right to left is fine, but the fixed blade is always an inch or two higher than field points depending on how much i move the rest up or down.

[CastAndBlast]

Holy crap,? Let’s make it difficult.? Just check your center shot, if it’s good then put a tweak in yoke. No yoke move your rest. Don’t let these bow nuts get you twisted up. PM me I’ll get to a bullet hole in about 10 mins


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Lol...with a Triax you "tweak the yoke" with top hat shims. So basically, you said the same thing I did minus checking the timing specs on the bow.

[denimdeerslayer]

And this is why I shoot mechanical. Always shoots the same as field tips.

[Justin Spies]

It rained yesterday afternoon, I did shoot about a dozen arrows this morning between the gym and work after moving my rest half a mark to the left. It seems that all it really did was move my broadheads to where I was aiming and move my field tip shots to the left. Ill try some more this evening to confirm.

[GypsyPoolman]

Following


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[Riceguy]

Think the question has been answered, so wanted to ask if you use any “eye helpers” once you begin shooting high yardage (40+yards).

[Justin Spies]

Think the question has been answered, so wanted to ask if you use any “eye helpers” once you begin shooting high yardage (40+yards).

I do not have any.

[CastAndBlast]

It rained yesterday afternoon, I did shoot about a dozen arrows this morning between the gym and work after moving my rest half a mark to the left. It seems that all it really did was move my broadheads to where I was aiming and move my field tip shots to the left. Ill try some more this evening to confirm.

Did you measure the distance of the center of the arrow from the inside of the riser?

I do not think it is a rest issue. To answer your original question, a GOOD pro shop/tech will be able to tune it as long as they let you shoot through paper or bare shafts and correct the cam lean accordingly using a top hat kit (if that is the problem). It is hard to find a pro shop that will tune a bow to this extent though (which is why I started doing everything/learning myself). Most are just going to make sure the timing is good and move the rest to correct center shot (you can check these things at home).

Either way, if it is not something simple like the rest, form, or fletching contact, you have 2 options. Either sight your bow in to your broad heads and put the fieldtips away, or take it to a pro shop and ask them to go through it since they will have to use a press to make any adjustments to the cams or timing.

[Justin Spies]

Did you measure the distance of the center of the arrow from the inside of the riser?

I do not think it is a rest issue. To answer your original question, a GOOD pro shop/tech will be able to tune it as long as they let you shoot through paper or bare shafts and correct the cam lean accordingly using a top hat kit (if that is the problem). It is hard to find a pro shop that will tune a bow to this extent though (which is why I started doing everything/learning myself). Most are just going to make sure the timing is good and move the rest to correct center shot (you can check these things at home).

Either way, if it is not something simple like the rest, form, or fletching contact, you have 2 options. Either sight your bow in to your broad heads and put the fieldtips away, or take it to a pro shop and ask them to go through it since they will have to use a press to make any adjustments to the cams or timing.

I bought this bow at Texas Archery. Would they be good to use for this?

[Goldeneagle]

It rained yesterday afternoon, I did shoot about a dozen arrows this morning between the gym and work after moving my rest half a mark to the left. It seems that all it really did was move my broadheads to where I was aiming and move my field tip shots to the left. Ill try some more this evening to confirm.

Rotate your nock to a different vane and see where it hits. It sounds like your broadhead is not straight.

[CastAndBlast]

I bought this bow at Texas Archery. Would they be good to use for this?

If you are talking about Texas Archery in Spring, I would definitely trust them. I thought you were up in Lufkin?

[Justin Spies]

If you are talking about Texas Archery in Spring, I would definitely trust them. I thought you were up in Lufkin?

I am but are little shop is in a feed store, and I don't like to use them. I leave in 18 days for South Africa. I don't mind driving down to Spring to get it done right and quickly.

[CastAndBlast]

I am but are little shop is in a feed store, and I don't like to use them. I leave in 18 days for South Africa. I don't mind driving down to Spring to get it done right and quickly.

I would completely trust them to go through it. I don't know your area very well to recommend a closer shop, but maybe someone can chime in.

Heck, I am north of Houston, and I don't mind going through it for you if you want to bring it by my house. The only thing I do not have on hand is a top hat kit if that is what is needed.

[Beargrasstx]

This is an instance where a broadhead like Thorn would come in handy. Most accurate broadhead as it is a field tip and you can practice with it. Once the tip hits (7lbs of pressure) causes the head to depress which causes the blades to cut through a little rubber cotter pin. You can even put a collar around the head to keep it from depressing and use it to practice with.

For the distances you will shoot and it is a thin skinned animal. I would look into Thorn broadheads. A few You Tube videos out there as well if you like visuals.

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