Knife Steel Sources

[Bucksaw]

I have been making knives from recycled steels for several years. While I still like the nostalgia of making something worn out useful again, I would also like to step up my game a bit, and begin using some known steels to try and appeal to the type of knife buyer that prefers known steels over mystery steel with a story.

Just curious where all the knife makers source their steel from, and what types of steel you prefer. My current setup consists of a small paragon oven and veg quench oil.

[Hills of Texas]

I use a lot of Alabama Damascus. It’s really nice to work with.

[Hills of Texas]

I use pops knife supply pretty often as well.

[Leon County Slayer]

There are lots of suppliers with a little googling but I too use Alabama Damascus for Damascus billets (Chad Nichols and Devin Thomas are two other options - be warned - for quality steels, you pay quality money.....

All other steels, you can reach out to Texas Knifemakers Supply(tell Lance Brian sent you - this may help or hurt you ), Jantz, etc.... or metal supermarkets or New Jersey Steel Baron (they will flat grind and decarb your billet for additional cost)

[coachk]

I use 5 different steels...1084, 0-1, 154cm, CPM154, and alabama damascus

New Jersey steel baron for my 1084 and 0-1. 154cm (and sometimes 0-1) I get from Admiral steel... I use CPM154 for my folders and I get that from Jantz. Alabama damascus I usually order direct from them...

[timberking]

I see used bandsaw blades in the metal dumpster behind our sawmill at Linden all the time. No circle saw but several gangs and the band.

[Jason Fry]

Every time I've used Alabama Damascus, it warps pretty bad. You do get what you pay for.

My main steel sources...
For forging steel, particularly 1080 or 15n20 for Damascus, I like Kelly Cupples. His contact info is at www.hightemptools.com Primary advantage here is that he ships free if you order over $100.

For stainless, I usually buy 154CM or CPM154CM from SB Specialty Metals in Arlington. They allow local pickup, and also carry a wide variety of PM steels. http://sb-specialty-metals.com/

I also order 1084, W2, and AEBL from New Jersey Steel Baron, www.njsteelbaron.com His website generally sucks, and he almost always has more in stock than the web shows. If your item shows out of stock, call him.

Pops is my go-to for belts. I also like Jantz, Trugrit, Supergrit, and USA Knifemaker for general supplies.

When it comes down to it, steel is the cheapest part of the knife most of the time. Using a "free" file to save 2$ on a $200 knife doesn't make sense, as it just introduces variables you can't control. One cracked leaf spring knife that you've got 4 or 6 hours in will pay for a lot of known steel.

[argel55]

Pops , Jantz, Admiral, NJ Steel Baron are all sources. One to check out is Alpha knife Supply. They also carry all steel and supplies.

[Bjankowski]

You've had enough answers; I agree with Jason, recycled steel has too many variables and not constant to get a reliable heat treat method. One reason I never use files, saw blades or springs.

As far as Alabama Damascus warping, I've been buying from Brad Vice for years and never had one warp, but then I don't buy thin material and I quench in brine.

[Jason Fry]

Yo
As far as Alabama Damascus warping, I've been buying from Brad Vice for years and never had one warp, but then I don't buy thin material and I quench in brine.

I just did 6 on Saturday, stock was a fat 1/8, not quite 5/32. Bevels were ground down to about 40 thou, and the tangs were tapered. 5 out of 6 warped, from 1500 into mineral oil. I intentionally tried the slower quench oil instead of my Duratherm G or Parks 50, as the faster ones tend to warp the 1080 more.

Fortunately, thanks to Brad Stallsmith from Peters, I learned that if you put a little heat on it, like 2-300 degrees with a propane or Mapp torch, you can bend it straight. It's intimidating bending after temper, but with this material and some heat, it works pretty good.

[coachk]

I haven't had any issues with alabama damascus warping...just got another slab in for an order...hope ya didn't jinx me Jason!!!haha

[Bjankowski]

I haven't had any issues with alabama damascus warping...just got another slab in for an order...hope ya didn't jinx me Jason!!!haha

It's fine, I just did one and straight as an arrow.

[Leon County Slayer]

Every time I've used Alabama Damascus, it warps pretty bad. You do get what you pay for.

My main steel sources...
For forging steel, particularly 1080 or 15n20 for Damascus, I like Kelly Cupples. His contact info is at www.hightemptools.com Primary advantage here is that he ships free if you order over $100.

For stainless, I usually buy 154CM or CPM154CM from SB Specialty Metals in Arlington. They allow local pickup, and also carry a wide variety of PM steels. http://sb-specialty-metals.com/

I also order 1084, W2, and AEBL from New Jersey Steel Baron, www.njsteelbaron.com His website generally sucks, and he almost always has more in stock than the web shows. If your item shows out of stock, call him.

Pops is my go-to for belts. I also like Jantz, Trugrit, Supergrit, and USA Knifemaker for general supplies.

When it comes down to it, steel is the cheapest part of the knife most of the time. Using a "free" file to save 2$ on a $200 knife doesn't make sense, as it just introduces variables you can't control. One cracked leaf spring knife that you've got 4 or 6 hours in will pay for a lot of known steel.

Almost always agree with good ol Jason here but that's odd about he Alabama issues you're having. I've not experienced that but a couple times in the hundreds of blades I've heat treated. could it be an oil issue or long blade issue only?
I've started using plates for quick quench in oil then place between for my longer blades and that does the trick and no problems with anything 8" and under....just a thought is all....

[Leon County Slayer]

I just did 6 on Saturday, stock was a fat 1/8, not quite 5/32. Bevels were ground down to about 40 thou, and the tangs were tapered. 5 out of 6 warped, from 1500 into mineral oil. I intentionally tried the slower quench oil instead of my Duratherm G or Parks 50, as the faster ones tend to warp the 1080 more.

Fortunately, thanks to Brad Stallsmith from Peters, I learned that if you put a little heat on it, like 2-300 degrees with a propane or Mapp torch, you can bend it straight. It's intimidating bending after temper, but with this material and some heat, it works pretty good.

Might try pure peanut oil and heat it up a bit before quenching. I've found when my oil is cold, it can warp - just a thought

[Jason Fry]

I'm open to suggestions for sure. ADS is American made, out of known steels, and is miles above the Paki Damascus. I've used three billets and had warpage on every one. I haven't normalized, but have tried 1500 and 1550 austentizing temps and 14 and 10 second oils, and a couple of different thicknesses. I can fix a warp and end up with a good blade, it's just another thing to fool with.