Maybe building a drill pipe fence?

[rut-ro]

We did pipe and cable fence and it looks nice. We were able to buy our pipe from 2 places. One in college Station and the other was Nucor just north or Normangee. It was their "defective' or used pipe. pipes they could not sell to customers but worked great for us. 32' joints

[WBA2000]

I did a pipe fence at my house. 2 7/8 joint was $30 and 2 3/8 is $25

[Wampuscat]

A 3 or 4 rail pipe fence is a lot of work, much less if you haven't done much welding. You also need to figure in rods and gas. unless you are welding uphill I would just use a 6011 or 6010 rod. If you don't want to have to cut a ton of saddles, I would just use square tubing for the post and make straight cuts for the rails.

I like the square tubing or pipe idea.

[Arrowthreat]

I've been buying a lot of pipe lately for my fences. I've found a place near OK off 75 for .95 cents a ft on 2 3/8. Clean pipe. I bought about 30 joints from a pipe yard in Springtown for 26 dollars a joint, but it was really dirty. Shop around, you can find good deals. Don't waste money on new pipe when it's just gonna weather outside and rust. If you want to save time and money, do a top rail pipe fence with cable or panels in place of additional pipe.


Start off with a 6010 or 6011 rod, especially for rusted pipe. I much prefer 6010 on my Miller Bobcat. It burns twice as fast.

[TX03RUBI]

$.90/ft is about the going rate for 2 3/8 J-55 in structural grade. I deal with pipe all day for a living. If you want to put in a little work you can find pipe as cheap as $.50/ft if you’re willing to buy 10,000 feet at a time. A truckload of 2 3/8 is 10k, and if you go direct you can find operators willing to sell it cheap by the truck load. I sell quite a bit in the Permian, but trucking will kill your savings to have it hauled very far.

[brokeno]

There's several pieces of stolen oil field pipe out there for a really good place

[Wampuscat]

I'm looking to use 3" or 4" square tubing for the posts and 2 3/8" pipe for the rails. Thinking about 2 rails on top, similar to this.

I'm thinking about getting one of the Everlast 200A invertor stick welders sold at Home Depot for just under $400. The YouTube reviews are really good for it.

[dclifton]

Do what you want but you will be frustrated trying to weld rusty pipe with a 7018.

Go to a welding supply house and tell them you want 6010 5P red flux rods. Best thing there is to weld rusty pipe. If you want to cap with a 7018 for looks and strength you can. But the 6010 will plenty strong enough for a fence job.

[Mr. Whiskers]

Do yourself a huge favor and use square tubing as post regardless of what you use for runners. I would use all square myself-3” post with the 2” turned as a diamond. Great looking, strong and easy to fabricate.

[Draco]

Pipe will be the best for price, stronger and last the longest. As clifton said, use 601o 5p+ rods. Strive for good cut joints and the fence will look neater.

[Dale Moser]

Maybe building a drill pipe fence?

Square tubing is high dollar, but saves you saddling pipe. On the other hand, round pipe hides a lot of “inconsistencies”.

As the guys mentioned before, it’s not hard to weld with 6010 5Ps, but it’s even easier with flux core wire. I did mine with flux core, and it was fast and easy....but those guys above are better welders than I am. Either way, I’d rather weld/cut any of it than stretch and tie that wire...

Lotta ways to skin a cat.


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[crumrw]

Saddling pipe is easy with a chop saw. It depends on the thickness of the pipe you use but 2 roughly 30 degree cuts will give you a near perfect saddle. As far as drill stem, I'd only use it if it's new. Pipe that's been in the ground will be a bit magnetized and can be a super pain in the arse to weld. Your bead will jump around like popcorn.

[Dale Moser]

Saddling pipe is easy with a chop saw. It depends on the thickness of the pipe you use but 2 roughly 30 degree cuts will give you a near perfect saddle. As far as drill stem, I'd only use it if it's new. Pipe that's been in the ground will be a bit magnetized and can be a super pain in the arse to weld. Your bead will jump around like popcorn.

I’ve heard of the chop saw method too, and I cut a few that way with a band saw and it worked well. I just found it a little slower and you can’t do it to pipe tops with a chop saw once the pipe is in the ground. I’m just barely good enough to do it faster with a torch.


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[Wampuscat]

I’ve heard of the chop saw method too, and I cut a few that way with a band saw and it worked well. I just found it a little slower and you can’t do it to pipe tops with a chop saw once the pipe is in the ground. I’m just barely good enough to do it faster with a torch.


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I was figuring this too. Set the posts, weld in the pipe rails & wire panels, Cut the post tops with a torch or porta-band, & weld caps on them. Sounds easy until the work starts.

[crumrw]

I’ve heard of the chop saw method too, and I cut a few that way with a band saw and it worked well. I just found it a little slower and you can’t do it to pipe tops with a chop saw once the pipe is in the ground. I’m just barely good enough to do it faster with a torch.


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Yeah, it is more work than square tube...twice as many cuts. Just cut them all before hand, put your end posts in the ground and depending on the length a few in between. Run a line from end to end and set all your posts to the height of the string. I'd much rather do all my cutting in the shop than in the field. Never done the torch method, but I'm pretty terrible witha torch. I'd end up butchering a lot of pipe and have half inch gaps I'd have to weld

That being said, I'd do the same thing with square tubing. Save a little time, spend a little more money. That's really the trade off.