Water Well Question

[steve morton]

Change the pressure switch to a 60-80, and readjust the switch to 50 on the low side to slow pumps demand. With larger trunk lines, volume increases, therefore it's gonna be a longer time before pressure drop.

[Wall_Hanger]

I get what you are saying. Good points.

I’ll have to double check, but I believe my dad has a 40 gallon bladder tank in his well house. There is a 30/50 switch. My thinking might be wrong, but if I put a 40 gallon or larger bladder tank and pump inline in my well house with a 30/50 switch, my pump will kick on at 30 psi and begin to pressure up/refill my bladder tank. When the pressure drops to 30 psi on my dads tank, the well pump will kick on and start to pressure up/refill the whole system. I’m guessing my tank would fill and pressure up first then a short time later, his would do the same. Thinking they will work in conjunction with one another to keep the whole system pressured up. I could be way off, but that’s the way we had it set up on the other place. It’s been years since we did that....trying to jog my memory. Lol.

As far as the check valve goes, yes I’d have one to maintain my pressure when a valve is open on my dads side...be it a water trough float, shower, or whatever. As far as an issue with check valve inline when refilling my tank, I’d think as soon as the pressure drops on my side of the check, it would open and begin to rob pressure off the upstream side of the check. Just thinking out loud.


Skinny

Thinking out loud here as well and haven't drawn anything out but.....the cleanest and cheapest way to get this all done IMO is to increase the existing bladder tank to maybe 60-80 gallons, run it at 50/70 PSI range and have two independent pressurized legs with isolation at the tank manifold. When the system, regardless of which leg, falls below the pressure set point, the pump will engage and will have a longer pump cycle which is better for the motor (versus short start stop cycles). You won't have to worry about line losses and differential pressure on systems this way.

In your base case, you could see your tank at 33 PSI and your dads at 35 PSI and it likely would not pressure fill into yours given the head differential and the pressure drop across the check. So in this case you would need to run your system down to the low 20's to ensure the pump kicked in and thats not enough pressure IMO. Or you would have to go flush a toilet at your dads to drop his pressure and get your tank to refill. It's the marginal case but I have seen issues like this with systems in plants.

[Skinny]

Thinking out loud here as well and haven't drawn anything out but.....the cleanest and cheapest way to get this all done IMO is to increase the existing bladder tank to maybe 60-80 gallons, run it at 50/70 PSI range and have two independent pressurized legs with isolation at the tank manifold. When the system, regardless of which leg, falls below the pressure set point, the pump will engage and will have a longer pump cycle which is better for the motor (versus short start stop cycles). You won't have to worry about line losses and differential pressure on systems this way.



In your base case, you could see your tank at 33 PSI and your dads at 35 PSI and it likely would not pressure fill into yours given the head differential and the pressure drop across the check. So in this case you would need to run your system down to the low 20's to ensure the pump kicked in and thats not enough pressure IMO. Or you would have to go flush a toilet at your dads to drop his pressure and get your tank to refill. It's the marginal case but I have seen issues like this with systems in plants.

I’m trying to comprehend all of that! Haha

Makes sense. I certainly want to do this right. Once! [emoji23]


Skinny