That video is how I did mine when I had it.
I prefer to press my ujoints out, rather than drive them out with a hammer & socket. Something about beating on that differential.....I just cant do it. I would use a socket & a small c-clamp. A few days before starting, soak them down with Kano a few times.
Once you get that inboard ujoint apart, and the splines separated, the axle shaft has to some inward, towards the rear end, to finally come out. But.....that wheel bearing is a tight fit. The axle doesn't just slide out. I ended up having to drive mine out. Which ruined my wheel bearing. I had even been soaking mine in Kano since I had pulled the brake hub off! So, its a good idea, since you have come this far in the teardown, to have a wheel bearing handy. Notice in the attached picture that the bearing is held in by a snap ring.
Re-installing that bearing is a PIA too. Prior to starting the job, put the bearing in the freezer for a while. To install, I used a piece of all thread, and multiple sized washers to make a puller. Clean up that hub where the bearing goes real good, and put a light coat of grease on it. This will help get it started, along with having it cold.
IMO, prior to starting the job, get 2 new Kawasaki U-Joints, and a Kawi wheel bearing. The cheaper ujoints that you can get from EPI, or Napa do not last. I thought I was doing good getting $25 joints that had grease zerks, but no. The ungreasable joints from Kawi are better quality.
I have the service manual, in PDF, for this mule. If you need any info just let me know, and I will post what I can for you. These are great machines, and well built. But having small hands is a virture when working on them!!!
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