School me on H.I.T.

[Diamond S]

Please excuse my ignorance on the subject, but I don't shoot Easton, and have not needed to buy arrows in a very long time. So a buddy came to the house last night with some Easton Axis arrows that used that insert. I was clueless as I was checking it out, still am clueless. The only 2 positives I saw was the point end may have a little more beef to it due to you pushing the insert down the shaft, and second, may aid in penetration with out the lip you sometimes get with a regular insert.

Now for the cons I saw, 1. What is protecting the fresh cut end of the arrow? from what I gather the ferrel is butted up to the carbon. Don't know if that is a good or bad thing. 2. How on earth would you remove that thing if you needed to? Threads mess up, broached/field point get cross threaded and you can't get it out.

No a bashing thread, I just have zero knowledge of this system and I am really wanting to be schooled on them, both good and bad.

[JakeGraves]

I am not a fan of them. I used Injexions for a season but had the front of the shaft break on multiple occasions. I suppose if you footed the front inch or two with aluminum, it would work better.

[PYBUCK]

This is supposed to increase point alignment and thus increase accuracy. Not sure how you remove them

[adam_p]

I like them. I use brass ones in my GT kinetic arrows and use GT ballistic collars. As far as removing them, put a field tip in, heat the field tip with a torch, grab the field tip with pliers and pull. Use as little heat as you can.

[Diamond S]

This is supposed to increase point alignment and thus increase accuracy. Not sure how you remove them

Not making a big deal on this, but how do you know if the shaft is squared up?

Just showing my ignorance again.

[twosixteens]

Been using them for probably 10 years now I haven’t had any problems and have killed lots of critters with them. I was skeptical about them when I first saw them (Easton Full Metal Jackets). I cut and fletch my own arrows so I read the directions cut them to length crossed my fingers and glued em in. If you follow the directions it’s pretty simple process. I always check the inserts prior to installation to make sure threads are good (had a batch of half outs 3-39 ACC’s years ago).

[Diamond S]

I like them. I use brass ones in my GT kinetic arrows and use GT ballistic collars. As far as removing them, put a field tip in, heat the field tip with a torch, grab the field tip with pliers and pull. Use as little heat as you can.

Will the heat make their epoxy turn loose? I can see that with hot melt.

[adam_p]

Will the heat make their epoxy turn loose? I can see that with hot melt.

Yes it will it just takes a little more heat than hot melt. I've done it with no side effects. You obviously don't want to heat the carbon too much. I'm not sure what too much is though. I just went slowly when I did it. Heat a little, pull. Heat a little, pull.

[spliffnwesson]

To remove the insert, take off nock, insert drill bit that moves freely, cant remember exact size, around 3/16" and swing arrow in hand causing drill bit to slam down on back side of insert, MULTIPLE times.

[Diamond S]

To remove the insert, take off nock, insert drill bit that moves freely, cant remember exact size, around 3/16" and swing arrow in hand causing drill bit to slam down on back side of insert, MULTIPLE times.

Ok so Forgive me for this, but do you mean the drill bit goes in from the nock end or the insert end? I know what logic says, but the way it reads is from the nock end. ( to me anyway ) I fully understand this makes me look kind of stupid, but I am seriously trying to learn.

[Bowhuntin_Toona]

Ok so Forgive me for this, but do you mean the drill bit goes in from the nock end or the insert end? I know what logic says, but the way it reads is from the nock end. ( to me anyway ) I fully understand this makes me look kind of stupid, but I am seriously trying to learn.

Drill bit goes in the nock end of the shaft. You use centrifugal force to knock the insert out. Have the drill bit at the nock end and act like you're gonna throw the arrow, or snap a whip. Drill bit slams into the insert. Do this until the insert flies out.

[Bisch]

To remove the insert, take off nock, insert drill bit that moves freely, cant remember exact size, around 3/16" and swing arrow in hand causing drill bit to slam down on back side of insert, MULTIPLE times.

Or.......just throw away that epoxy that comes with the inserts, and glue them in with Big Jim’s Quick Stick hot melt glue, and get them out anytime you need to.

I shoot Easton Axis Full Metal Jackets. I also use the 75g brass inserts, and at nearly $1.50 a piece, I want them back when I break an arrow. The real advantage to these shafts is that they are skinny, and as such, you get better penetration on critters more consistently than with a fatter shaft.

Bisch


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[Fishndude]

Not making a big deal on this, but how do you know if the shaft is squared up?

Just showing my ignorance again.

Because the archery shop that installs them would use a tool to square them perfectly.

[Diamond S]

Ok, well I have a little more insight now. Thanks for all the replies.

[rladner]

Not making a big deal on this, but how do you know if the shaft is squared up?

Just showing my ignorance again.

Because the archery shop that installs them would use a tool to square them perfectly.

That, or buy a squaring tool yourself.

I like this style because it makes it much easier to index my broadheads with my fletchings. All I have to do is square it off a little until the broadhead screws in exactly how I want it to.