Shop Floor Epoxy question

[txlawdog]

From what I hear, make sure it is two part epoxy or hot car tires may roll up the epoxy. And like others said make sure floor is clean and etched. Worse part for me would me having to move all my stuff out and leave it until dry as instructed. Maybe my next house before I move anything in.

[bowhuntz]

Where are you located? A buddy of mine does this for garages,shops, porches, etc. TxFloors on Facebook. Based out of the cypress area, travel all around Houston and surrounding areas


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I'm north of Princeton Tx (between Blue Ridge and Princeton)

[bowhuntz]

I have used the Rustoleum garage floor kit two times and it works great. The most important step is the acid wash and scoring of the concrete prior to putting the epoxy down.
Once that is done, it rolled on about 4' x 4' section at a time and then sprinkled the cores flakes on top of that section.
I would also highly recommend adding the sand so your floor is not slick when you are finished.
To have somebody do it for you is very expensive when the reality is that it's not difficult to do yourself. If your garage floor is fairly new and not stained with oil etc, the acid wash will be much easier.

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Thanks everyone for the advice. My concrete is new so nothing has been spilled on it yet. Except for the beer my dog knocked over

[35remington]

Going to put Epoxy or something on my new shop floor. Anyone have recommendations for the best do it yourself application? Anything I should stay away from?

Thanks!

Did you search the TBH threads on garage floors and epoxy floors?

[Bowhica]

Did you search the TBH threads on garage floors and epoxy floors?

Seems to be a trending topic.......I'm looking as well.

[35remington]

Seems to be a trending topic.......I'm looking as well.

I learned a lot from those threads when I did my floor.

[8mpg]

You guys just need to be careful with the acid wash. It needs to be neutralized well before the epoxy goes on. Also, most commercial grade ones want you to grind the concrete, not acid wash.

[35remington]

You guys just need to be careful with the acid wash. It needs to be neutralized well before the epoxy goes on. Also, most commercial grade ones want you to grind the concrete, not acid wash.

I will say this much—after all that dammed scrubbing, washing, rinsing, and acid, I wish I had just rented a freaking floor sander to grind the concrete. I probably spent 35 hours alone on the prep.

[TXPalerider]

Where are you located? A buddy of mine does this for garages,shops, porches, etc. TxFloors on Facebook. Based out of the cypress area, travel all around Houston and surrounding areas


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It's actually Texas Floor FX on Facebook. www.texasfloorfx.com

[TXPalerider]

From what I hear, make sure it is two part epoxy or hot car tires may roll up the epoxy. And like others said make sure floor is clean and etched. Worse part for me would me having to move all my stuff out and leave it until dry as instructed. Maybe my next house before I move anything in.

2 Part epoxy has nothing to do with it. Epoxy is not heat resistant and you will have hot tire lift if you do not put a heat resistant clearcoat over the top of it.

To answer a couple of other questions:

Diamond grinding is the only way to prep the concrete in order to get guaranteed results. Acid etching is a crap shoot. Really dependent on concrete density and composition.

None of the Sherwin Williams, Lowes, or Home Depot will resist Moisture Vapor Emissions. If your slab has high MVE they will bubble and peel. As someone mentioned above Sherwin Tile Clad is better than the small kits. But, still won't resist MVE.

Guys, this is my business and we offer a Lifetime Adhesion Warranty on all our floors. So I know what works and doesn't.

Having said all that, our floors are very high quality and are not cheap and I know they are not in everyone's budget. So if you want to go the DIY route, I will be happy to answer any questions you guys have to help you get the best results.

Brad

[MadHatter]

2 Part epoxy has nothing to do with it. Epoxy is not heat resistant and you will have hot tire lift if you do not put a heat resistant clearcoat over the top of it.

To answer a couple of other questions:

Diamond grinding is the only way to prep the concrete in order to get guaranteed results. Acid etching is a crap shoot. Really dependent on concrete density and composition.

None of the Sherwin Williams, Lowes, or Home Depot will resist Moisture Vapor Emissions. If your slab has high MVE they will bubble and peel. As someone mentioned above Sherwin Tile Clad is better than the small kits. But, still won't resist MVE.

Guys, this is my business and we offer a Lifetime Adhesion Warranty on all our floors. So I know what works and doesn't.

Having said all that, our floors are very high quality and are not cheap and I know they are not in everyone's budget. So if you want to go the DIY route, I will be happy to answer any questions you guys have to help you get the best results.

Brad

What is a better product then? How many lbs of mve resistance is considered good/spec/etc. or is it a case by case basis?

[brokeno]

Used the stuff from Lowes. Used deluted murutic acid to clean floor rolled on epoxy sealer and threw out those sparkle things Really easy and reasonable After 6 yrs or so there are a few places where car parks that bled through but could touch it up if wanted too.

[TXPalerider]

What is a better product then? How many lbs of mve resistance is considered good/spec/etc. or is it a case by case basis?

I would looked for at least 8 lbs of MVE resistance.
The company I buy from won't sell retail. But, Versatile Building Products has an epoxy #4195 that is a good product and they sell direct. But, you still need to diamond grind prior or it doesnt matter. Also, it is not UV stable so you have to use a clearcoat that is UV stable.

[tradslam]

Tagged

[marshhunter]

It's actually Texas Floor FX on Facebook. www.texasfloorfx.com

Yep that’s the one! [emoji23]


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