I have a 351w that is a complete short block.....I think I have 95% of the parts to finish..Looking for someone that is well versed in Ford motors to assemble everything for me...Carb motor if that makes a difference...Thanks Robert
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Looking for engine builder
Collapse
X
-
Originally posted by 79F250 View PostIf you were in San Angelo I'd help you out
Originally posted by Kingfisher789 View PostDon't forget some new head bolts
Comment
-
登录 Facebook,与好友、家人和认识的人分享和建立联系。
I have know the Ackers my whole life. They build race engine for their race trucks.
Might give them a call.
Killeen
Comment
-
Originally posted by Lazyman View PostAt this point I would be willing to drive some....Frame and other stuff will be coated this summer and want the motor ready to go in pretty quick after....
The 351w is an 80's engine going into a 1955 truck. It is not going to simply drop in to your old truck in three hours in the driveway while you drink a few beers without custom fitting like it would if we were dropping it into my Bronco. You will be very skilled in installing and removing the engine and transmission by the time this project is done.
What transmission, linkage, and drive shaft are you using? Verify that the motor mounts will put the engine and transmission where you want them before you "coat" the frame. Stock motor mounts in the stock location probably won't be optimal.
Is the frame going to be in coat powder or paint? If you have to grind and weld in motor mounts to keep decent access to bell housing bolts and get the gear shift linkage in position so it works right, you may want to do that before the coating. Even if you have to dry fit mock-up the engine assembly (heads, valve covers, headers, oil pan, etc) to work out the motor mount fitment before coating, it will save you time and money in the long run.
If your engine height is not matched to your radiator height, you may have too much air space in the radiator, which will allow corrosion form and to eat through the narrow passages causing leaks. I ruined an awesome radiator this way.
The end result will look better without the coating being beaten up with multiple engine installs, measurements, grinding, welding, and re-coating.
Unless you already have the motor mount details worked out, where and how your motor sits in the frame may be a bigger challenge and expense than assembling the engine.
I'll help you how I can. Send me a PM. I'm sure other guys on this site will too. Plan in advance and save as much money as you can on this project. I think that you are making a good decision by building a reliable old truck is rather than buying a new or late model truck.
Comment
-
Originally posted by banzai View PostThe engine assembly sounds close to stock so it shouldn't be too far the factory service manual. This is not your biggest challenge. You did select the heads based on the fact that the stock ones are the limiting factor if you want more than stock power, right?
The 351w is an 80's engine going into a 1955 truck. It is not going to simply drop in to your old truck in three hours in the driveway while you drink a few beers without custom fitting like it would if we were dropping it into my Bronco. You will be very skilled in installing and removing the engine and transmission by the time this project is done.
What transmission, linkage, and drive shaft are you using? Verify that the motor mounts will put the engine and transmission where you want them before you "coat" the frame. Stock motor mounts in the stock location probably won't be optimal.
Is the frame going to be in coat powder or paint? If you have to grind and weld in motor mounts to keep decent access to bell housing bolts and get the gear shift linkage in position so it works right, you may want to do that before the coating. Even if you have to dry fit mock-up the engine assembly (heads, valve covers, headers, oil pan, etc) to work out the motor mount fitment before coating, it will save you time and money in the long run.
If your engine height is not matched to your radiator height, you may have too much air space in the radiator, which will allow corrosion form and to eat through the narrow passages causing leaks. I ruined an awesome radiator this way.
The end result will look better without the coating being beaten up with multiple engine installs, measurements, grinding, welding, and re-coating.
Unless you already have the motor mount details worked out, where and how your motor sits in the frame may be a bigger challenge and expense than assembling the engine.
I'll help you how I can. Send me a PM. I'm sure other guys on this site will too. Plan in advance and save as much money as you can on this project. I think that you are making a good decision by building a reliable old truck is rather than buying a new or late model truck.
Everything was mocked up to put in motor and transmission mounts...Heads are supposed to be the correct ones but whoever puts together will have to check the valve clearances and push rod length to make sure...
Comment
-
Originally posted by AntlerMax View PostI raced drag boats for years and my motor man lives on 45 between Brownwood and Richland Springs (right at the Colorado River). He has a machine shop called G&C Engine and Machine.
He does really good work.
PM me and I'll send you his number if you're interested.
Comment
Comment