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Help Training My Dog to Track

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    Help Training My Dog to Track

    I have been working with my lab to get her trained to help us find wounded/otherwise unrecovered deer on my bow lease. I am looking for some advice/suggestions on how I can help her improve. I already have John Jeanneney's book "Tracking Dogs for finding wounded deer."

    She has made good progress. However, there were two instances she was unable to help us that concern me. First one was earlier in the season and the deer was gut shot. She tracked to where the deer had lay down, and then the blood stopped. We spent a lot of time looking and trying to pick up the trail again but to no avail. Next time was recently, the deer had been hit low, possibly in the brisket or below the heart. She tracked until the blood stopped and continued to a fence line. (We probably should have crossed right away, but didn't.) She actually worked her way back and forth by the fence then continued down the fence line. After several hundred yards she took after an Armadillo. I took her back to the last blood and she came to the same spot, then continued down the fence line but seemed to be way off at that point. (probably looking for the Armadillo). I returned her to the start and she worked the trail back to the same spot on the fence. This time we crossed and she continued for quite a ways (300+yards.) At that point we pulled her off the trail because we could see no evidence of blood. Also we were were starting to get into another hunters area in a different pasture. Bottom line, so far she has tracked great as long as there was a good blood trail.

    Here is what I have done to train her.
    * Mock blood trails and place a deer leg at the end of the trail. These were done about once a month, with a deer leg on the end of the trail. Length of the trail were 150-500 yards. I always had several turns, which works through no problem. Blood is dripped out on the ground about every 10-20 yards. I wait 3-6 hours and have her work the trail. At first she would get distracted and I would put her back on the blood but she has done very well since then.
    * At first I had her on a long lead, but found this impractical in the thick brush at our lease.
    * Even when I do the mock trails close to camp I load her up in her crate. She knows exactly what do when she gets out.
    * I always have her wear a bell.
    * Anytime I shoot something I take her to track it. This year that was 2 pigs and one buck. She has done very well on these trails and I found them to be invaluable to her progress. Things really seemed to click after she tracked the first pig. Good thing for me is two of the animals only went about 50 yards, kind of bad for training purposes. One pig ran abouut 170 yards, and she did very well finding it. That one was awesome blood trail though, so it was pretty easy to find in the first place.
    * As much as I have tried to get her on other people's kills that has proved more difficult. Some only want her there when they cannot find the deer, plus I am not always at the lease when kills are made (I hunt 150 miles from my house).

    Here is what I am planning on doing for her training in the future.
    * Keep doing mock trails, but with far less blood than have been using.
    * Create more gaps in the trails.
    * Keep trying to put her on animals.

    I do realize that not every animal shot can be recovered, even by the best dogs.

    Any advice on what else I can do is greatly appreciated.

    #2
    Kevin use what I say to help you in any way possible. I have been training hounds for a long time now and if you are wanting this hound to track wounded animals it is not the blood you want to follow it is the adrenalin trail or fear trail... Yes there will be blood and hair and even a little (ca ca) along the way but for the hound to discriminate between one deer and another you must give it that opportunity to trail/track a the ones that have been shot.

    All animals including humans when scared or frightend or injured will emmit an odor that is on the most part undetectable to the human noise but smells like a skunk (strength wise) to the hounds nose. We in the law enforcement field call this a fear trail and our hounds will drag your butt at 100 MPH following this trail.

    A deer, Hog, or even sasquatch when scared/injured/shot will leave this same type of trail..Hence why when you bump a deer and another comes along afterwards they are on the alert because of the odor of fear left behind by the previous animal.

    Continue to train your hound with the odors you want tracked by using small pieces of hair and skin fron harvested animals, and every chance you get put them on the track of every animal you shoot... Best would be for you find the animal first and then bring your hound to the track and keep tem on that track they will associate the odor they know with the fear trail the harvested animal has made and after a 1/2 dozen times or so you will see a huge difference in your hounds tracking ability.

    And start small with your tracks.. Let the hound see you place the artical to be found and then let them go and get it..Continue to make this further and further away each time... After the artical is out of sight and the hound is finding it well start putting 90 dgree turns down wind witht he artical this will keep your hounds noise to the ground and working to stay on that track not something else in the up wind direction ie..an armadillo...

    Keep at it and dont give up if the hound is working now they will only get better with time...As I have told dozens of new K9 handlers...Its not a science its a game..Keep it fun and keep it simple and they will love you for ever...

    AND ALWAYS REMEMBER.... A dog has bad days just like we do.....

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks for the pointers HWC - TTT

      Comment


        #4
        good posts...thanks guys...i'm gonna try to train my catahoula i got from TBH member phibob to track...what age should i start her on?...shes only 9 weeks now...should i wait until she has basic commands down or what?...im about to order John J's book as well...any other reading or video reccomendations?

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          #5
          Kdog, sounds like you're doing what you need to do. My lab is a wonderful tracker and retreiver... However, she cannot find an animal that is not dead or hurt bad enough for her to catch up with it with me hanging on the end of the lead... If the animal is dead, she's pretty much 100%. She drug Chew and me through some really nasty stuff last week after a deer that wasn't dead yet, but it was slowed down enough that she caught it and we finished it off... I'd just stick to it. The labs don't have the nose of a hound, but if you duck hunt and use yours as a retreiver too as I do, they are hard to beat.

          Comment


            #6
            312 - I don't think it is too young to start her. I remembered something in John J's book I read, so I looked it up "A deer liver has special properties that really turn on very young puppies. You can drag it ten feet across a lawn, and a 4 week old puppy will be fascinated and try to track it. They may need some help to get to the chunk of liver at the end, but they will delight in chewing each morsel......" You get the idea.

            You really should get his book it has a ton of good information about dogs, tracking and just hunting in general. I think I am going to read it again for review.

            I have a couple of deer livers in my freezer and could part with some blood too. Just shoot me an email kevin_kenney at yahoo.com

            Comment


              #7
              Thanks salt I was hoping you would post.

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                #8
                thanks kdog...i'll get her on it pretty soon here...ill hopefully be goin to shoot a couple does and hogs at my buddies place here pretty soon to get as much blood as possible...

                raw diet is the best kind of a diet for a dog anyhow!

                thanks for the offer too!!! i may have to get with you on that...i'll keep in touch...thanks a lot!

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                  #9
                  good post, I have a black & tan that I was thinkin of working with to track animals... might have to check out that book.

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                    #10
                    Put that dog on anything that you can shoot- I will start shooting coons and rabbits if mine hasn't been on anything in a few weeks. If they dont run far enough I just drag them for a while in the woods and hide them somewhere. Shoot hogs and tell everyone you know that hunts close to shoot hogs and call you.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Thanks glen - TTT one more time.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by SaltwaterSlick View Post
                        Kdog, sounds like you're doing what you need to do. My lab is a wonderful tracker and retreiver... However, she cannot find an animal that is not dead or hurt bad enough for her to catch up with it with me hanging on the end of the lead... If the animal is dead, she's pretty much 100%. She drug Chew and me through some really nasty stuff last week after a deer that wasn't dead yet, but it was slowed down enough that she caught it and we finished it off... I'd just stick to it. The labs don't have the nose of a hound, but if you duck hunt and use yours as a retreiver too as I do, they are hard to beat.
                        I was going to ask about Labs if they had a good enough nose. I've seen my old lab trail a wounded duck through all sort of nasty thick stuff and wondered about trailing deer. She's too old to even hunt ducks now, so this one will have to be satisfied with chewing up the deer legs I bring her but I will be getting a new pup when my old dog expires and I want to be on top of my dual training and ready to go when the time comes so I'm looking into it now.

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